Hellstone

 

The Hell Stone. Although referred too as a dolmen, I'm not sure the Hellstone is one, they're not a common monument type for this region, being more customarily found further west and in Wales.  Of course that doesn't mean it isn't. Though I believe it's more likely the remains of an Neolithic chambered long barrow (a monument type typical to the region) reconstructed in 1866 using a degree of wishful thinking. Still, cool site.

The Grey Mare and her Colts

 

The Grey Mare and her Colts are the remains of one of the regions many Neolithic chambered tombs. Even in ruin it's an substantial monument, behind a large stone façade the capstone and supporting stones of the burial chamber lay collapsed, beyond which a greatly reduced long mound with evidence of peristalith is still clearly visible. Like many prehistoric monuments it would appear that site has an astronomical alignment, in this case with the Summer Solstice sunset.  The Grey Mare and her Colts is a nicely preserved Neolithic long Barrow one I'd recommend to anyone interested in prehistoric archaeology.

Valley of the Stones

We'd journeyed to the Valley of the Stones this morning in search of the 'polishing stone' or if you want to sound posh 'polissoir'; the Valley of the Stones being a substantial field of exposed Sarcen boulders, the largest in the region. Rarer that hens teeth this stone is one of only two such stones identified in situ in the British Isles. Dating from the Neolithic 4000 to 2200 BC, it would've been used in the finishing of stone artifacts, the action of which has left super smooth areas on the boulders surface. The stone was only identified a few years ago, so a must for anyone interested in prehistory. Anyway, we couldn't find it, poor preparation on my part; every day's a school day, eh. Still, lovely spot.

Portable antiquity

 

Glancing down whilst walking the edge of a ploughed field on the ridge of the Kimmeridge Bowl, something caught my eye. A prehistoric flint scraper. Common in the tool kit of the Neolithic farmers who first settled Purbeck. This example appears well worn, with signs of damage, possibly both ancient and plough. As finds go, flint is a particular favourite of mine, it feels such a personal artefact. That feeling of being the first soul to handle a prehistoric flint since the person who probably crafted it never dulls. I'll record it under Portable Antiquity Scheme; an item like this may seem insignificant, though it adds to our broader understanding of our ancestors who walked this land before us.

Hambledon Hill

 

Dorset is home to some magnificent Iron Age hillforts, some of the country's finest if not most emblematic examples, and one of the finest is Hambledon Hill set in the county's Blackmore Vale region. The hill rises majestically from the surrounding landscape and was a focus of activity long before the hillforts' construction. During the Neolithic two causewayed enclosures crowned the summit, overlaying an earlier enclosure, the site also includes a couple of long barrows, most of this activity has been overlaid by the ramparts, ditches and interior of the later Iron Age hillfort, or levelled by time. I've not walked here for years, and it was only by chance that we found myself over this way today, and with an old friend; a perfect day to return. Even though I've visited this site innumerable times over the years it never fails to solicit a visceral response,  you can only imagine how the architects and users of these monuments must've experienced the sites and surrounding landscape. 

West Kennet Barrow

A trip to Avebury isn't complete without a visit to West Kennet Long barrow; prominently sited in the landscape it's the Neolithic equivalent of 'get orf  moi land'. Of all the sites in the Avebury complex it's always been West Kennet that's most captured my imagination.

 

Knowlton

Knowlton Church through it's arches.

Penbury Knoll Camp

Penbury Knoll Camp is designated as an early prehistoric hillfort, with an irregular single rampart and ditch, and an interior suffering from later quarrying. I'll be honest, in it's present condition and scant visible remains (beyond a section of shallow ditch and slight bank), it's hard to see this site as a hillfort, it's very small too. It's definitely something prehistoric. There are several causeways across the visible shallow ditch, and I could see it being a causewayed enclosure, and interestingly there are good assemblages (from surface finds) of Mesolithic and Neolithic flint work from the knoll.  Nice spot, with some good vistas over the Chase and towards the New Forest, you can see why it would have been the focus of human activity.

Cursus's end

The Dorset Cursus would have been a magnificent monument and expansive feature in the Neolithic landscape. Comprising of two joined sections, the Cursus is a linear feature of two parallel banks and ditches running for 10 km north east/south west across the undulating north Dorset landscape. For the most part nothing of this vast monument remains visible above ground. Though some of the associated features still remain visible. The earliest of these features are the Long Barrows, the focus of collect burial, these monuments pre-date or are contemporary with the Cursus, with one being incorporated in the bank. At the north eastern terminus of the Cursus are several Long Barrows, a couple of which are tree crowned, and when approached from the right direction create a striking silhouette on the rise. I love walking these archaeologically rich landscapes, and they don't come much richer than Cranborne; although the Cursus and Long Barrows are Neolithic, all the ages are represented. Bronze Age Barrows, earthworks and enclosures, Iron Age settlements and earthworks, a Roman road, right up to the mid 20th century military firing ranges, and evidence of the hunting and farming practices in-between. Fantastic. I really feel I'm walking in footsteps of the ancestors, in their landscapes, their monuments and activities come to life in my minds eye.

Cursus Barrow

It's been a while since I've walked over Martin Down, it's a stunning landscape. It's a landscape steeped in history too. The seasonal nakedness of the trees allows for a clearer look at some of downs oldest monuments, here a group of Neolithic Long Barrows which cluster around the north-eastern terminal end of Dorset Cursus. These would have been collective burial monuments, chambered bone houses, with the interned bones often sorted by type. There is evidence from some Long Barrows of the bones having been removed then returned.

Prehistoric Dorset (Bronze Age)

We're moving through time to the Bronze Age, well the end of the Neolithic in to Bronze Age, society is changing as are the settlement types, ritual monuments and burials. Dorset contains a number of Bronze Age monumental remains (particularly round barrows which are not represented in this post), we see the emergence of single standing stones, or linear stone setting and of course that most enigmatic of monument, the stone circle. 

First we have an isolated standing stone of a considerable size, the Kingston Russell Standing Stone. Set low in coombe below the extensive prehistoric landscape of Martin Down and Black Down towards the end of the Dorset Ridgeway (on private land behind some ostentatious black ironwork fencing and gates, but don't let that deter you, follow the nearby public footpath and easy access will become evident), the Kingston Russell Standing Stone is one of that mysterious class of monument, the isolated standing stone or monolith.  Very beginning of 2010; a Space Odyssey. The function of these monoliths is uncertain, although some may have celestial alignments, others may have formed markers on ceremonial ways where activities were performed as part of a protracted ritual, many have legends of healing associated with them, evidence of some folk memory maybe? Or just myths. What is known is that monoliths are not unique to the Bronze Age nor to Britain, with thousands identified around the world, suggesting something universal in this monument form. The Kingston Russell Standing Stone is of an impressive size and worth a visit, being obscured in its setting it's often overlooked.

Next, the Kingston Russell Stone Circle. First I have to say how disappointed, no, outraged I was at the condition of the site, cattle have been allowed to churn the site up, really doing some damage to the ground surface and if continued in time will seriously degrade the site (as with other archaeological sites, in the past its also seen ploughing too close to it). It doesn't take much thought. Enough though. The Kingston Russell Stone Circle lies about half a mile from the Neolithic long barrow of Grey Mare and her Colts, again on the Dorset Ridgeway. The 360 degree views are impressive, if any of the prehistoric practices at the site involved fire, it would have been visible for 10s of miles in all directions. The circle or rather oval-ish circle, comprises of 18 now recumbent stones, many of which are broken (there may more buried and the ones we can see might not be in their original positions), they are either of sarsen or some conglomerated stone which looks like lumps of pebble-dash, both types locally sourced, as I said it's an oval-ish shape of 27m at its largest.  I mentioned it's proximity to a Neolithic monument, stone circles appear first during the transition between the Neolithic and Bronze Age as new ritual and burial practices and material cultural items are embraced, a connection between the people associated with both sites is possible, distantly related group or family, or maybe it was just that that location in the landscape was significant. As with so much prehistory and prehistoric activity, it can only be hypothesized about, so let your imaginations run riot, no dragons though. There are two more stone circles locally at Hampton (2 miles east) and Nine Stones (4 miles north-east).  I like this site and in the past have spent some time just sitting (sometimes sleeping) within its bounds, a good spot for a picnic too. Lovely.

Prehistoric Dorset (The Neolithic Long Barrows)

  Dorset contains many excellent examples of Neolithic Long Barrows. Long Barrows were multiple burial monuments associated with the first farming communities, long earthen mounds sometimes covering a wooden mortuary enclosure or building, and sometimes a stone chamber or chambers.  There are differing interpretations of use and function, as individual sites throw up a variety of clues. They could represent the tombs of important families, maybe 2 or 3 generations. They could represent statements on land tenure. They could represent broader communal burials, with some having contained 50 or more  sets of remains. There is evidence of bones being reused and replace, maybe a form of ancestor worship. Or, it could be all of the above or something completely different. That's both the frustration and joy of prehistory. What I can say is, they took considerable effort and resources to build, and so must have been important to those constructing them.

Top is all that remains of the Long Barrow at West Compton, set on a high exposed ridge, the mound is all but gone and only 2 stone remain (or at remain visible). Increasingly when I visit sites I see the plough creeping closer and closer, here the area where the mound and ditches would have been is under the plough, probably destroyed, erased from the archaeological record (solemnly shakes head) rather than retained and the stones sit in isolation and increasingly out of any context. Still, it's a nice site to visit.

Next, is the Grey Mare and her Colts, the best preserved Long Barrow in Dorset (for stone setting at least, there are Barrows with more complete mounds, and probably some undisturbed). Set on the Dorset Ridgeway (an area crammed with prehistoric remains), you can see a considerable distance in all directions. Much of the mound has disappeared, and the burial chamber has collapsed in on itself, though some of the uprights of the large stone façade remain standing and evidence of a possible surrounding stone kerb are visible. Excavated in the 19th century, the chamber yielded quantities of human bone and some Neolithic pottery.  A really nice site to visit.

Finally, the Hell Stone. Again on the Ridgeway, the Hell Stone is a bit of an anomaly as it has clearly suffered from a 'romantic' restoration in the late 19th century, making it great visually, although in no way reflecting its original appearance.  A cluster of large upright stones support a substantial cap stone, there is also evidence of a long mound, although this is truncated and very eroded.  Again, this is a really nice site to visit and even if it doesn't reflect the original form, it is a Neolithic Long Barrow site.

Dorset Grove Alban Eilir ritual

Life can overtake you sometimes and so I'd not made it to a Dorset Grove ritual for some time, although on arrival it felt like I'd never been away.  Even with winters cold fingers still clinging to the land (and cling they certainly did), the warmth of the circle was tangible as was the love of those forming it. If you've ever been interested in how Pagans or Druids celebrate the turning of the seasons and observe their special days, then you could do a lot worse than to come and experience (and enjoy) one of the Dorset Groves open rituals, which happen 8 times a year around the winter and summer Solstices, the spring and autumn Equinoxes, Imbolc, Beltaine, Lughnasa and Samhain. The wheel of the year, marked by the 4 quarter days and 4 fire festivals. Their rituals are some of the best I've attended (and I've been attending these type of things since 1989), the rituals include druidic practice, shamanism, meditation, healing, drama, that's to name but a few aspects. All delivered inclusively, in a rich mix of reverence, respect, love and humour, which perfectly illustrates the nature of modern paganism. And if you're yet sold, there's also cake!

Thank you Dorset Grove, and a happy Alban Eilir to y'all.

Bare Barrow

Although Spring is almost upon us, the trees are still bare on Knowltons' 6m high Great Barrow. Constructed in the late Neolithic or early Bronze Age it's the largest barrow in Dorset. The Knowlton complex must have been something to see in prehistory and a very significant regional ritual/spiritual site. Even today with many of those prehistoric features ploughed out, levelled and invisible, what remains are still striking, the ruined church at the henges' centre, in-particular, can be spotted from a distance and on a misty day appears ghostly. Knowlton's are real gem, and whether it's the archaeology, the history, the landscape or the vibe, Knowlton well worth a visit. Walk the bank of the Neolithic henge, wander the ruined medieval church , take in a sunrise/sunset, picnic, or just site a take it all in. You'll love it.

Hambledon Hill

Although the sun had shone during the initial part of out journey, as we drove farther west into Dorset so mist shrouded the landscape, filling the hollows and dulling the hills.  And, so it was when we arrived at Hambledon Hill, that ancient hill rising proudly from Blackmore Vale. Though that mattered not one wit. As we climbed up the Hill, so the years peeled away and it was as if we were walking back through time. You have to let your imagination go if you really want to experience the land, to visualize the past and have it brought to life in your minds eye. Your imagination is a wonderful gift, but like your muscles it has to be exercised if it is to work at its best, though sadly many don't bother and so only experience a tiny percentage of what a walk has to offer.

Hambledon Hill is steeped in history, in the activities of mankind. Open your minds eyes and you can glimpse possible pasts. They say that the grand old Duke of Yorks' men toiled up and down these steep hillsides as part of their preparations for storming Quebec (or so the story goes). Imagine that, it wouldn't take long before you were spent, so steep are the slopes.  Travel back further, delve deeper and it's that Civil War and the Dorset 'Clubmen', aligned with neither side, battle to protect their lands from pillage in the Battle of Hambledon Hill. A battle which sees them defeated by the New Model Army, though spared and returned home by Cromwell. Further back still, the mists of time thicken, though use your imagine and the Iron Age Folk living within the giant ramparts come to life. They raise the ramparts and settle in. Though it would appear after a few hundred years of occupation, they gather their belongings and leave for the adjacent earthen fortress of Hod Hill, their new home until the Romans arrive 300 years later. The mists of time which swirl around your mind thicken more, you're really travelling back now to the earliest of settled times, though with focus they clear to reveal the Neolithic occupants of the hill.  These Neolithic first farmers perform their rituals and communal feasts within their causewayed enclosures, they gather up the cleaned bones of their dead and deposit them in the two hilltop Long Barrows, staking their claim to the surrounding land through their ancestors remains. No doubt the hill saw activity before the Neolithic, although no trace of those nomadic hunter gathers remain. We return down the muddy chalk tracks, back to our own time and modernity. What a terrific walk. 

And that's how the landscape unfolds for me as I walk.  That said, there's a fair possibility I'm mentalist, and not in the demonstrating extraordinary mental powers sense, more the British 'informal' dictionary definition 'an eccentric or mad person'. 

How now not so brown cow

It's funny how conditioning works and how deep it goes. Even after all this time I'm still taken aback to come across cattle (Bos taurus) roaming and grazing the woodland. So ingrained are the images of cattle in neat fenced fields fed to us from our earliest days through the old Macdonald had a farm world view, that it's easy to forget the cattle were here before the farms or fences and they got on just fine. It wasn't until the Neolithic (relatively recently in human evolution) that cattle began being domesticated in this part of the world and they'd have been very different beast both in form and size.  These early cattle were domesticated Aurochs (Bos primigenius), the now extinct giant Ox. Although they've only recently been reintroduced to the forest woodlands, they were only absent for a relatively short time; up until the enclosing of the forest in the 18th century cattle roaming would have been a common sight, as attested to by tree management practices such as pollarding (like coppicing although done above 1.8m) which were banned after enclosure. Pollarding allowed the collection of withies (straight juvenile stems) for craft purposes and was done at afore mentioned height to protect them from cattle browsing, showing cattle were common place in the forest before timber production took over. I like seeing cattle or pigs in the forest it reminds me of what the forest would have once looked like. As I say, our conditioning must be strong when something looks out of place in its nature setting.

Pignuts

The woodland fringes and meadow edges where covered with Pignuts (Conopodium majus) in flower today, once a favourite with children who'd dig for the sweet tuber or 'nut' which is similar to a sweet chestnut or hazelnut, it has all but been forgotten now as children find themselves increasingly disenfranchised from their natural world and from playing outdoors. The nut can be quite hard to recover as it's located at the end of a fragile and twisting root, though when a fair sized example is recovered it's well worth the effort and makes for a tasty treat; care needs to be taken when chasing the nut, the stem as mentioned can twist and the nut may not be where you think it is and if you break the stem you efforts may end in failure. I'm always cautious of members of the Umbelliferae family as it contains some poisonous members and you can easily misidentify which is which, although only the Pignut forms a tuber of this sort. The photo above shows all the parts of the plant; their white umbel  flower, their much divided leaves, the developing seeds, the long winding root and tuber. These nuts have always been a collected food source, being identified from prehistoric contexts Mesolithic, Neolithic and Bronze Age; their continuation in folk tradition up until recent times is testament to their value as a food source. 

Knowlton sunset

The sunset from Knowlton Henge was stunning.

Stoney Littleton

The first time I visited Stoney Littleton Neolithic long barrow it was in a poor state, the roof had partially collapsed and access was reduced to only a couple of meters; the second time I visited the entrance was completely blocked off. That was over 15 years ago; today the long barrow has been restored and you can access the whole structure, a long central passage with 6 paired side chambers and one terminal chamber. What a great site. Built around 3500BC in the Neolithic period, the construction of the passage and chambers is drystone corbeling on large base stones, the passage and chambers are all under a meter wide, with low ceilings; these features are built into a 30m long trapezoidal earthen long mound of medium height, itself faced with drystone walling; the entrance is of large stone blocks, one containing a fossil ammonite, set in a drystone facade. An interesting note is that the entrance is aligned so that at the midwinter sunrise, the Sun will shine down the central passage.  In the terminal chamber were the remains of recent activity: candles, flowers, photos and messages marked the passing of a loved one; there may been ashes too, I didn't pry or enter the chamber. You read a lot of complaints about rubbish being left at or in archaeological sites, and a lot of them are well justified; this though I felt was different, it wasn't beer cans or food wrappers; these were the remains of a deposition or ritual for a dead loved one and to my mind totally in keeping with the primary purpose for which the monument had been constructed. As an archaeologist, and as long as undertaken with respect and no damage is done, I fully endorse actions like these; as a pagan, assuming the same caveats as before, I fully endorse actions like these; and more than that, I believe that our ancestors who constructed these sites would endorse such continued use. The details of the practice/ritual may differ, as they do when we celebrate our seasonal observances at other prehistoric/historic site; for me that's not what's important, more important is the continuity of use of these sites, our motivations and the ways which we use them, which, in essence, I believe enjoy more similarities than differences with our ancestors and which I'm certain they would recognize and sympathetically endorse. 

If you're in the area, and you can find it, it's well worth a visit.

Stanton Drew

I've not visited Stanton Drew stone circle complex in over 20 years; it was nice to explore them again. I was hoping to see the Mendip Morris performing, although I arrived just as they were leaving; another time maybe. The Stanton Drew complex consists of 3 stone circles and a group of 3 stones known as the Cove; built during Late Neolithic 3000 to 2500BC, or possibly into the early Bronze Age 2500 to 2000BC, the main circle is second in size in the country only to Avebury and recent research suggests that originally it would have been surrounded by a large bank and ditch, with the central area filled with concentric circles of pits which possibly would have contained large timber uprights; such a construction would have required a substantial amount of manpower to complete, these features have subsequently been removed. The best preserved stone circle of the complex is the Northern one, which like the main circle, has the remains of a stone avenue attached, although all the circles are virtually complete.  The Cove bears a striking similarity, although smaller and situated beyond the circle complex, to the stone setting of the same name in Avebury's Northern inner circle; is there a connection? What is known is that the Cove site here predates the circle complex by a 1000 years and was the site of a Neolithic long barrow; the current stone setting being a later addition or possibly a remodeling of the original barrow. Set in the beautiful Chew Valley and flanked by the River Chew, this site is well worth a visit and I was pleased I did.