Portable antiquity

 

Glancing down whilst walking the edge of a ploughed field on the ridge of the Kimmeridge Bowl, something caught my eye. A prehistoric flint scraper. Common in the tool kit of the Neolithic farmers who first settled Purbeck. This example appears well worn, with signs of damage, possibly both ancient and plough. As finds go, flint is a particular favourite of mine, it feels such a personal artefact. That feeling of being the first soul to handle a prehistoric flint since the person who probably crafted it never dulls. I'll record it under Portable Antiquity Scheme; an item like this may seem insignificant, though it adds to our broader understanding of our ancestors who walked this land before us.

Kimmeridge

 

I've said it before, the Isle of Purbeck stands outside of time. A landscape appearing to have avoided the worst ravages of modernity; I imagine for the most part unchanged for centuries. Mere minutes from the sprawling urban expanse of BCP, it's an entirely different world, a natural wonder. A landscape rich in monuments, the stories of a millennia of human activity carved into the fabric of the isle, so much so that every walk can be a walk through time.

 

Gorse extravaganza

 

You may be able to find gorse (Ulex) flowering somewhere in the forest on any given day, though it's at this time of year that we're granted a gorse extravaganza. Even on a dull day like today the flowers radiated a sweet coconuty aroma; if you were wanting to make some gorse flower wine, we're now entering the best time to be gathering flowers. Gorse was a favourite of the wines we 'crafted'; we'd make the yearly pilgrimage to the Kimmeridge bowl where tradition had become we'd gather our flowers, enough for 5 gallons of wine usually. Always a clean crisp wine; we'd use a chablis or Chardonnay yeast as I remember. I fancy making wine again; after all home made wine/beer was big in the 70's, and as we're economically back in the 70's I think it's time for a resurgence.

Kimmeridge

This morning I unexpectedly found myself on the Isle of Purbeck with a couple of hours to pass. I'm not complaining; being a term time Monday the Kimmeridge bowl was thin on walkers, and with most visitors congregating at the focal point of the beach I had the ridge walk to myself. Originally I'd thought to walk the under-cliff eastwards, though the tide wasn't out that far so I decided to walk out to Swyre Head; I'd forgotten how steep the rough track up towards the Head is.  Although a reasonable breeze blew, you only felt and benefited from it when in the shade, out in the sun it was proper roasting, and the entire walk out to the head and back is exposed. Lovely walk mind, with wonderful views too, though I was grateful for the opportunity at the end of the walk to sit awhile in the shade of a clump of ash trees on the ridge just above Kimmeridge village, where the cooling breeze took no time to revive me. Nice impromptu walk. 

Purbeck

Back to the Isle of Purbeck this morning, an early-ish start too, as the day had the potential to deteriorate...which it did, a bit.  It was another bright spring day to start, although a thin misty haze hung in the air and clouds could be seen gathering sneakily on the horizon...I see you cloud! Again we parked below the castle and set off along the footpath running along the base of the Knowle Hill, between the rough grassland and gorse of the hills and a matrix of hedged fields and small pockets of ancient woodland that define the Corfe Valley. Our path rose briefly as it transferred from Knowle Hill and Ridgeway Hill at bare Cross, affording us vistas along the Valley. They were short lived though as we soon descended again into the fields of the Corfe Valley, crossing it's titular river before rising up past Hyde Wood to the ridge above Kimmeridge, with stunning views of the Kimmeridge Bowl and along it's western arm...our direction of travel. We passed fields of bright yellow rapeseed which shone like gold, so vibrant. The western arm of the Kimmeridge Bowl is a favourite walk, views into the bowl and out to sea on one side, and into the Tyneham Valley on the other, really lovely. Out here it's hard to imagine you're so close the expansive BCP conurbation. A couple of miles undulating path and we reached the extent of our outward walk, Tyneham Cap and Townley Shenton's Seat with the most stunning view over Gad Cliffs and Worbarrow Bay towards Weymouth and the Isle of Portland. In Weymouth Bay you could see the cruise liners still hunkered down at anchor due to covid. We sat a while to take it all in before beginning our journey back. Another lovely walk, 11.7 miles. I don't mind walking alone, you can really connect and absorb, which I enjoy deeply, though it would be nice to sometimes share these walks again with others.

Kimmeridge Bowl

Just as yesterday in the forest, Autumn stalked the countryside again today, only this time we were over in Purbeck, and the windswept ridge above Kimmeridge. Kimmeridge sits in a bowl surrounded by a ridge, the other side of which are the Tyneham and Corfe Valleys, it was that ridge we were walking today (the same ridge we took out to Tyneham Cap last week). The day was confused, a strong wind scoured the landscape, again Bel was a reluctant player, playing peek-a-boo between the thick grey clouds which scud across the sky, though it was still t-shirt walking weather. Odd indeed. As always, the Purbeck Hills were magnificent this morning, ancient and weathered, with their timeless wild feel, and a certain, on the edge of the world quality to them. Purbeck really is a magical isle. Getting out here early, having the tracks to yourselves, your mind lost in the rugged landscape, it's hard to imagine you're only a few miles from one of the South Coast's biggest conurbations. You might as well be a hundred miles away, and hundreds of years back in time. Today’s walking was good for ails you walking. 

By gads it's Tyneham Cap

Another early start over to Purbeck this morning, this time though Bel was having none of it and remained hidden beyond the cloud, the coastline was shrouded in sea mists too, lending this magnificent rugged landscape an eerie air. This mornings walk was westwards along the ridge of the Kimmeridge Bowl out to Tyneham Cap and Townley Shenton's Seat...and as always the views were stunning. On reaching Tyneham Cap I was surprised (and a touch dismayed) to find Townley Shenton's Seat missing! I don't know what that's about, though I hope it returns as it's become a bit of a landmark for me, a place to sit and take the views that Townley so much enjoyed. I didn't know Townley, although I know he loved these views, the views he hoped we'd enjoy too (I know that because it said so on the memorial plaque on the afore mentioned missing seat). As always fabulous walking.