Portable antiquity

 

Glancing down whilst walking the edge of a ploughed field on the ridge of the Kimmeridge Bowl, something caught my eye. A prehistoric flint scraper. Common in the tool kit of the Neolithic farmers who first settled Purbeck. This example appears well worn, with signs of damage, possibly both ancient and plough. As finds go, flint is a particular favourite of mine, it feels such a personal artefact. That feeling of being the first soul to handle a prehistoric flint since the person who probably crafted it never dulls. I'll record it under Portable Antiquity Scheme; an item like this may seem insignificant, though it adds to our broader understanding of our ancestors who walked this land before us.

Townley Shentons' Seat

Tyneham Cap or Towney Shenton' seat (as I know it) is without doubt one of my favourite spots on the Jurassic Coast, with it's spectacular views along the Jurassic coast in both directions and a clear sweep across the entire Kimmeridge bowl it's easy to understand why. The halfway-ish point on our mornings walk, it was the perfect place for a break. Whilst chilling I got chatting with a chap who it turned out had been born in Kimmeridge in '44 and has lived and worked here since. How cool is that, to have that depth of connection to a particular parcel of land must be something special. His stories brought the landscape and places around us to life, stories of childhood capers, of family connections, of farming and more, the nuggets of information he shared adding to my knowledge of the area. I think he was up here visiting his brother 'Mivvi' whose ashes had been spread here a couple of years back, so after a while I thanked him for his time and left him in peace. I really find it a privilege chatting to people. I'm a huge fan of oral history and recording peoples stories, it's a resource too often overlooked and to valuable to waste. We could learn so much by listening.

Kimmeridge

This morning I unexpectedly found myself on the Isle of Purbeck with a couple of hours to pass. I'm not complaining; being a term time Monday the Kimmeridge bowl was thin on walkers, and with most visitors congregating at the focal point of the beach I had the ridge walk to myself. Originally I'd thought to walk the under-cliff eastwards, though the tide wasn't out that far so I decided to walk out to Swyre Head; I'd forgotten how steep the rough track up towards the Head is.  Although a reasonable breeze blew, you only felt and benefited from it when in the shade, out in the sun it was proper roasting, and the entire walk out to the head and back is exposed. Lovely walk mind, with wonderful views too, though I was grateful for the opportunity at the end of the walk to sit awhile in the shade of a clump of ash trees on the ridge just above Kimmeridge village, where the cooling breeze took no time to revive me. Nice impromptu walk. 

Purbeck

Back to the Isle of Purbeck this morning, an early-ish start too, as the day had the potential to deteriorate...which it did, a bit.  It was another bright spring day to start, although a thin misty haze hung in the air and clouds could be seen gathering sneakily on the horizon...I see you cloud! Again we parked below the castle and set off along the footpath running along the base of the Knowle Hill, between the rough grassland and gorse of the hills and a matrix of hedged fields and small pockets of ancient woodland that define the Corfe Valley. Our path rose briefly as it transferred from Knowle Hill and Ridgeway Hill at bare Cross, affording us vistas along the Valley. They were short lived though as we soon descended again into the fields of the Corfe Valley, crossing it's titular river before rising up past Hyde Wood to the ridge above Kimmeridge, with stunning views of the Kimmeridge Bowl and along it's western arm...our direction of travel. We passed fields of bright yellow rapeseed which shone like gold, so vibrant. The western arm of the Kimmeridge Bowl is a favourite walk, views into the bowl and out to sea on one side, and into the Tyneham Valley on the other, really lovely. Out here it's hard to imagine you're so close the expansive BCP conurbation. A couple of miles undulating path and we reached the extent of our outward walk, Tyneham Cap and Townley Shenton's Seat with the most stunning view over Gad Cliffs and Worbarrow Bay towards Weymouth and the Isle of Portland. In Weymouth Bay you could see the cruise liners still hunkered down at anchor due to covid. We sat a while to take it all in before beginning our journey back. Another lovely walk, 11.7 miles. I don't mind walking alone, you can really connect and absorb, which I enjoy deeply, though it would be nice to sometimes share these walks again with others.

Kimmeridge Bowl

Just as yesterday in the forest, Autumn stalked the countryside again today, only this time we were over in Purbeck, and the windswept ridge above Kimmeridge. Kimmeridge sits in a bowl surrounded by a ridge, the other side of which are the Tyneham and Corfe Valleys, it was that ridge we were walking today (the same ridge we took out to Tyneham Cap last week). The day was confused, a strong wind scoured the landscape, again Bel was a reluctant player, playing peek-a-boo between the thick grey clouds which scud across the sky, though it was still t-shirt walking weather. Odd indeed. As always, the Purbeck Hills were magnificent this morning, ancient and weathered, with their timeless wild feel, and a certain, on the edge of the world quality to them. Purbeck really is a magical isle. Getting out here early, having the tracks to yourselves, your mind lost in the rugged landscape, it's hard to imagine you're only a few miles from one of the South Coast's biggest conurbations. You might as well be a hundred miles away, and hundreds of years back in time. Today’s walking was good for ails you walking. 

By gads it's Tyneham Cap

Another early start over to Purbeck this morning, this time though Bel was having none of it and remained hidden beyond the cloud, the coastline was shrouded in sea mists too, lending this magnificent rugged landscape an eerie air. This mornings walk was westwards along the ridge of the Kimmeridge Bowl out to Tyneham Cap and Townley Shenton's Seat...and as always the views were stunning. On reaching Tyneham Cap I was surprised (and a touch dismayed) to find Townley Shenton's Seat missing! I don't know what that's about, though I hope it returns as it's become a bit of a landmark for me, a place to sit and take the views that Townley so much enjoyed. I didn't know Townley, although I know he loved these views, the views he hoped we'd enjoy too (I know that because it said so on the memorial plaque on the afore mentioned missing seat). As always fabulous walking.

Townley's view

A harsh wind raked the ridge around the Kimmeridge bowl this morning as we made our way along it towards Tyneham Cap, and although the sun shore brightly, it was no match. A bright cold day indeed, great for walking, and we did at quite a pace. On reaching the Cap one of the Jurassic Coasts many spectacular vistas comes into view; in the foreground Gad Cliffes, beyond, a sweeping view across the Tyneham Valley and Worbarrow Bay, over the ramparts of Flowers Barrow Iron Age hillfort, across to Mupe, and Portland on the horizon. Quite something. The Jurassic Coast at it best. No wonder Townley Shenton loved this view.

Kimmeridge

Although the sky was a clear blue and the young sun shone brightly over Kimmeridge Bay, still on the surrounding hillsides and in the valley and hollows beyond, snow clung on. It was a great day for walking, the air was crisp and clean, and there were few people about. I was expecting to walk out around the Kimmeridge bowl to Townley Shenton's seat, though I found the range gates locked when they shouldn't have been. I don't know what that was about. So, anyway, instead I took the cliff top east towards the base of Swyre Head. Man, the cliff top path along here feels sketchy walking at best, it's very narrow, and slightly slopes towards a high sheer drop, add mud and ice and it was terrifying at times.  Some way along the path, over the fence in a field, is an abandoned military observation post, which at one time clearly had other features associated with it, now long gone, with only mounts and rubble remaining. I stopped for a while, the views through the posts small embrasures along the coast in both directions were fantastic. It must have been a nice posting in the summer, though I'd imagine bleak and foreboding in bad weather, or the depths of winter. Back on the scary cliff top the path rose and fell, with several little foot bridges crossing narrow gullies through which water raced before cascading off the cliff. Eventually, after what seemed like an eternity, my route turned inland, away from the frightening cliff path and I could relax. I don't know why take routes that scare me so, maybe it's a to challenge my fears, or maybe I'm just a fool. I walked back through the valley below the snow capped ridge which makes up the eastern length of the Kimmeridge bowl, before climbing back up to quarry overlooking Kimmeridge. As you can imagine, if the snow endured on all the sunny southern faces of the Purbeck Hills, the predominantly north facing slopes of the Purbeck Ridge remained firmly under winters snowy embrace. The roads over the ridge at Grange Hill and Cocknowle were both glazed and treacherous driving, as I found out descending from Cocknowle, I thought I'd be through the fence at one point.  Another memorable day at the coast.

Tyneham Cap & Gold Down

The valiant Sun, shining wearily in a pale blue sky whispered autumn, though the chill winds that scour Tyneham Cap and Gold Down shouted winter. To add to the confusion, throughout my walk sporadic blocks of cloud delivered moisture, because rain is loyal to neither season and will happily fall in any. The coast though was absolutely stunning; it always is. Standing at Townley Shenton's seat, high atop the 167m high knoll of Tyneham Cap, no matter in which direction you point yourself, you're faced with jaw dropping views of exquisite natural beauty. It doesn't matter how many times you've seen these views (and we've seen them hundreds of times), they never loose their wow factor. As cloud scoots across the sky, light dances over the rugged coastline and cliffs, across the ancient drystone walls, copses and hedges of the arable/pasturable patchwork which cover the valley, and through the high rough grassland which cap the hills and ridges.  These appear timeless scenes, scenes which draw you in, scenes that touch something deep inside you; there's something about wild places, or places steeped in history which make your spirit soar. Purbeck is one of those places, Purbeck is a landscape you feel. As if to reinforce my feeling that I was walking in a landscape walked for thousands of years, I picked up some worked flint flakes, from the edge of a ploughed field high on the ridge and was instantly connected to someone who walked here in prehistory. Marvellous.

We'd have fought them on the beaches

Churchill said we'd fight them on the beaches, though would we have stopped them? Would we have won?  On the beaches, no. In the longer campaign, apparently, yes. In the 1970's 'Operation Sea Lion', the 1940 German invasion plan was war-gamed by 30 British and German military experts and was umpired by three military commanders (air, land, sea) from each country. Initially, the Germans broke through the coastal defences and pushed 10 miles inland establishing a beachhead, though the forces that made it ashore became overstretched and lacked supplies, and as the Luftwaffe couldn't dominate the skies, so Royal Navy was able to successfully stop any German re-enforcements or supplies reaching the beleaguered forces. The game started on September 19th 1940 and by the 28th of September 1940 the remaining German forces either escaped back to France or surrendered and were imprisoned, the umpires unanimously declared the German invasion a failure. Like many other beaches, Kimmeridge was hastily defended in 1940, of those defences 2 type 25 pillboxes and 2 lines of 'Dragons Teeth' anti tack obstacles remain. The ATO's and pillbox in the 2nd and 3rd photos have recently been cleared of invasive growth, whereas the other end of that ATO line have almost disappeared under natures blanket.  Even though many of these wartime defences have been removed from the archaeological record, you'd be surprised at how many remain hidden and forgotten, a testament to the extent of the defences thrown up in 1940.  

Kimmeridge ledges

The tide was out, at it's lowest for the day, although about to turn, when I arrived at Kimmeridge. I'd parked up in the old quarry above the village, about a mile from the coast with it's fantastic views over this scoop in the Purbeck hills, and it's free.  I walked through the village with its impressive new fossils museum and along the edges of the sticky fields down to the sea. I say the tide was out, it was by no means as out as it can be, though still allowed for access along the under-cliff east of the bay. Care needs to taken when walking here, the tide can come in faster than you'd imagine, it's difficult going and there's no access off the under-cliff at the Egmont end; that's a 3 mile plus race against the tide if you get your timing wrong. The rising tide will also cause you to walk closer to the cliff base, not a good idea, throughout my time on the under-cliff the sound of falling debris was near constant. I bottled it knowing the tide was on the turn, and only went as far as Clavell's Hard, about a third of the way along. When the tide is proper out, you can walk out some distance on the ledges here, and you're afforded fabulous views of the coast. For example, the top photo shows the coast westwards, with the magnificent Gad Cliffs in the middle distance. The Gad under-cliff has always held a magical attraction to me, as it's never open to the public and so still wild; I walked there for the first time last year, it's forbidding terrain, no paths, just slides, rocks and prickly thicket. The Kimmeridge under-cliff is very different, flat ledges like patterned rock pavements, and the remains of other broken flat ledges are interspersed with pebble and shale scree beach.  Fossils are common on the foreshore, most easily spotted are the familiar shapes of Ammonites. There's so much to see, Kimmeridge is within the Purbeck Marine Wildlife Reserve, the rock pools and rock ledges are teeming with life. It's also a well known surf spot too, and there were plenty of surfers, catching some nice looking waves. What a beautiful day.

Kimmeridge sunset

After our walk we decided to hang about for a while and wait to see how the sunset developed, and waited on the hillside above Kimmeridge Village. It was worth the wait.

Gad under-cliff

Here's a few images which aren't of the Gad under-cliffe landscape, but of some of the things found there, both natural and man made.  

No shit, Sherlock! I saw three of these signs in a various states of decay, this was the best preserved of them, a testament to the truth of their message.

The only piece of ordinance I saw today.

A couple of the numerous Ammonite fossils to be seen amongst the under-cliff rocks. Well, it is the Jurassic Coast after all.  These were about 40cm or so in diameter.

By Gads!

By Gads! The cliffs, that is. The stretch of coast under Gad cliffs is always off limits to the public because, I think, it's part of the Lulworth range overshoot  and probably hard to clear of any potentially dangerous ordinance, another reason maybe is that the land is steep, rugged, susceptible to landslides and has no discernible paths and so would represent difficult access anyway. Whatever, it's land less trodden, for sure. Until last year, in all my years of regular walking the Jurassic Coast, I'd never walked there, looked longingly from afar, but never walked there. I made a second foray into forbidden walking today, and managed to walk and scramble the entire length of the under-cliff. And it was marvellous. I imagine being out along this piece of coast during a storm would be a terrifying as it would dangerous, the rocky foreshore of jagged boulders is treacherous and the under-cliff unwelcoming so say the least, and that wouldn't be so marvellous. Though with the sun shining and a gentle sea lapping the rocks it's blissful. It's a real escape from the the more familiar, more human landscapes we find ourselves in; no matter how wild we think the places we walk are, more often than not they're the result of years of human activity and exploitation, and would have looked quite different in their 'natural' state. This piece of earth hasn't been altered by human activity (to my knowledge) With no tracks (beyond deer tracks), and what with the terrain being so rugged, you get a real sense of being in wilderness. I don't think the smile left my face throughout the walk, so many groovy things to see, so many different unfamiliar views of a familiar landscape. Not a long walk, although a taxing one, and one on which you have to keep your wits about you, wilderness is dangerous.

Kimmeridge from Swyre Head

Clouds played across the stunning Purbeck landscape as we climbed Swyre Head, with its magnificent views looking west across Kimmeridge and beyond along the Jurassic Coast. Beautiful.

Nettles are coming

The nettles are coming. Yesterday I noticed amongst the hedgerows and under the bare crowns, small clumps of green were popping up, heralding the arrival of that most useful of spring herbs the Stinging Nettle (Urtica dioica). I'm going to have a look locally and if enough are about to collect, it'll be stinging nettle soup time.

Townly Shentons seat

Situated high on Tyneham Cap Townley Shentons seat commands spectacular views along the coast in both direction as well as out to sea. It's position makes it well inside the military ranges and so is only usually accessible from Friday evening through to Sunday. I never knew Townley, though he certainly knew a good spot when he found one, and I'm sure his hope that 'we love this view too' must have been realized thousands of times by now and will continue to do so. When ever I'm this way, and I can, I take the opportunity to visit, take in the views and say how do. If you're in the area, pop up, enjoy the views, that's why Townley had his seat put here.