Tyneham Valley

Through a cutting in the outer rampart and ditch defensives of Flowers Barrow (an ancient Iron Age hillfort) you get your first glimpse of the magical Tyneham Valley beyond; a spectacular view of a landscape frozen in time. I love views like this. The severity of your descent just beyond the rampart can be challenging, although nowhere as challenging as the ascent is.

Purbeck

My first outing to the Jurassic Coast this year, and what a lovely day it was too; made even more pleasing being accompanied by two very good friends who I'd not walked with for 3 and 9 years respectively. Back in the day Purbeck was our crews' regular Sunday playground; the adventures we had, the laughs, the situations we found ourselves in... someone/something must have been watching over us. One of the beautiful things about meeting up with really good old friends, beyond just being with them, is it's as if no time as passed at all, and an exquisite comfortableness rules; a priceless respite from our jarring, fragmented and f*cked up world. 

Corfe to Flowers Barrow

 

It was Purbeck for us this morning, and stunning it was too. A bright spring day punctuated by scudding clouds casting dramatic fast moving shadows like searchlights across the landscape. Although the sun had warmth there was a bit of a chill wind which certainly took the edge off. We parked below the castle, our route was to be along the Purbeck Ridge from Corfe out to it's westerly terminus at the Iron Age citadel of Flower Barrow and back again...12.5 miles. Regretably beyond the bottom photo, taken from the high point of Ridgeway Hill looking back towards Corfe, there's no photos after I stuffed my lens through the application heavy handedness to delicate mechanisms. Shame. It was a really lovely walk too, with endless photo opportunities. The ridge line allows you spectacular views along the curving Corfe Valley, over Poole Harbour and the remnants of the Great Heath, and from Flowers Barrow stunning vistas of the Jurassic Coast. It's easy to see why Purbeck is an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and World Heritage site. I love this landscape and never tire of walking it.    

Here we go again

Sunday's meant Purbeck of late, well, why wouldn't it, the weather's been very conducive to fabulous walking and the Jurassic Coast is a fabulous landscape to walk. Up and out early, again we had the morning to ourselves, and glorious it was. Having enjoyed last week's walk so much, we decided to take the same route again, the Povington Hill down to Tyneham Village, out to Worbarrow and up to Flowers Barrow, then back along the ridgeway to Povington Hill loop, not long, about 4.5 miles. And again it was wonderful walking, just as last week. Although it was considerably hotter from the get go this morning, by 0900 it had become a sweat fest with Old Bel showing he wasn't spent yet, the air was still and warm too, affording no relief. I can't imagine how hot it must've been by midday, Another thing different this week was that Worbarrow Bay was filled with yachts at anchor, I say filled, there were 15 or so, and you could understand why, what stunning views to wake to.

Flowers Barrow

Sunday again means Purbeck, and once again we found ourselves in the Kimmeridge/Tyneham region of the Jurassic Coast. This time we parked at Povington Hill, high on the Purbeck Ridge above Tyneham. The drive out had been through moderate rain and I was beginning doubt the weather wizards, though I kept faith and as we approached the Isle of Purbeck the rain eased, clouds began to dissipate and by the time we reached the ridge old Sol was making his presence felt. I knew, as Bill Withers had prophesied,  it was ''gonna be, a lovely day...lovely day''. Walking down towards the ruinous Tyneham Village not a soul stirred, the access road down was still closed (we were out early again) and we had the valley to ourselves. It was the type of morning where you breath a bit deeper, your gait has extra bounce and you really feel the land and the elements you're walking through...you feel alive. Not a bad feeling. It wasn't long before we were down on the coast at the tout, looking at formidable hill rising before us and wondering if I'd made the right choice of route. We are were we were though, so upward then. Geoff's in his element out here, he loves his walks, though seems to really enjoy our Purbeck missions. The climb up to Flowers Barrow never gets any easier (why I think it would be is beyond me), it's not the steepest in Purbeck, although it's up there. A deceptive slow burner, and before you realise it you're engaged in a real steep slog, a muscle draining, lung stretching, slog. Although on reaching the summit and Flowers Barrow your reward for taking the challenge is clear, with majestic 360 degree views of nature glories. Whilst out I usually take the opportunity to connect with a bit of chanting or meditation, today was no different, standing, I take the traditional three element connected breaths. Today they really resonated, I was standing on the ancient earthen ramparts of the Iron Age hillfort built on cliffs spanning 185 millions years of geology, high in the sunny sky being caressed by a gentle fresh breeze, looking out over a beautiful clear blue sea which stretched clear to the horizon. Far out. I soaked up as much of the views and atmosphere as I could before we moved on. Flowers Barrow is sited towards the far eastern end of the Purbeck Ridge which starts way over on Ballard Down, our return route along the ridge will be far less arduous than our outward journey. It's all gently rolling ridge top trackway, a route that will have been utilized for millennia, down Rings Hill, on which Flowers Barrow is sited (hence the hills name), the over Whiteway Hill with its trig point marking its status, and finally back up Povington Hill,  and all the way along great views over Tyneham Valley and Povington Heath. Another magnificent Purbeck walk.  

Townley's view

A harsh wind raked the ridge around the Kimmeridge bowl this morning as we made our way along it towards Tyneham Cap, and although the sun shore brightly, it was no match. A bright cold day indeed, great for walking, and we did at quite a pace. On reaching the Cap one of the Jurassic Coasts many spectacular vistas comes into view; in the foreground Gad Cliffes, beyond, a sweeping view across the Tyneham Valley and Worbarrow Bay, over the ramparts of Flowers Barrow Iron Age hillfort, across to Mupe, and Portland on the horizon. Quite something. The Jurassic Coast at it best. No wonder Townley Shenton loved this view.

Worbarrow Bay

The opportunity arose for a walk over Purbeck's Jurassic Coast, and well, you'd have been mad not to on such a glorious day. Taking advantage of the ranges still being open we opted for Worbarrow Bay and Flowers Barrow for today's destinations.  We parked up on the Purbeck Hills, and walked down towards the Worbarrow Bay, as we walked we were afforded fantastic views along the Tyneham Valley, and of the ruins of the village which until the Second World War thrived there. The exploded hulks of tanks and armoured vehicles litter the Gad Cliff side (seaward side) of the valley, though there's no firing today, all's serene. On reaching the tide was out and you could see the steep angle of the pebbly beach at the Worbarrow tout end (eastern end) of the bay. I don't like swimming here, it's like Mupe Bay opposite, it gets very deep, too quickly for me for a beach. It's not too bad walking around the bay today, with the tide out you could walk on more stable intertidal, much easier. Once you've passed the colourful sedimentary strata of the Wealden Beds, reminding me of Alum Chine on the Isle of Wight, you come to the high chalk cliffs of Cow Corner and the end of the bays beach. High above is Flowers Barrow, the western end of the Purbeck Hills ridge, capped with the ramparts and ditches of an Iron Age Hillfort, and our next destination. The ascent was going to be tricky, the whole cliff face below the hillfort has suffered extensive slides in recent years, leaving an alien landscape of boulders, scree and mud. Certainly on the recommended route, although one we've taken for years, and in it's current state one we traversed as quickly as we could. Eventually, after a scree scramble, and then the slow climb up the hills steep grassy flanks, we sat within the ancient fortifications. Our reward, views, man, spectacular views. What a fabulous walk, in a fantastic landscape.

Flowers Barrow

For the most part Purbeck appears to exist in timeless isolation, though its quiet façade hides an often rough and dramatic history. Purbeck's rugged coast and cliffs were worked by fishermen and quarrymen alike, its hills made for hard farming and harder toiling beneath them, whilst a smattering of military defences are testament to important Purbeck in our history. The land is layered with the relics of our past activities, with some sites showing a continuity in use which spans millennia. With its extensive views Flowers Barrow, high on the Purbeck coast, is one such site. With its impressive Iron Age ramparts and ditches, its Second World war pillbox, an observation post, rusting tank hulks and target markers (it's currently within the Lulworth firing ranges), Flowers Barrow has a distinctly military flavour. And although, its ancient ramparts may have half slipped into the sea, with its World War Two monuments slowly following them, it still commands this stretch of the coast and remains a predominant landmark. I could easily just sit up here and watch the day go by, especially on day as beautiful as today.

Bindon Hill to Flowers Barrow

Not a long walk at 9 miles, though a punishing walk as it was virtually all hills. Park in Lulworth, up the steep side Bindon Hill and along it's hogs back ridge with its prehistoric banks and ditches, followed by a descent in to the small bay of Arish Mell where the waste water pipe from Dorset’s atomic energy establishment site at Winfrith, then directly the citadel heights of Flowers Barrow Iron Age Hillfort rose before us, an arduous climb later the payback was glorious views along the Jurassic coast. That was the out route. After a short rest and time to absorb the beauty before us, it was the return route.  Over ancient ramparts and back down to Arish Mell, past the rusting hulks of cobbled together mutant tanks used for target practice, then up the really punishing rise to Bindon. We then turned towards the sea and down the slippery grass slope with its loose tracks to the rocky bay of Mupe.  With it's rock stack, buckled geology and secret smuggler cave (a proper one!), Mupe Bay is straight out of an adventure story.  It's hard going, the coast here is jumbled rocks, some stable, some not. Once up from the bay it's along the coast to Lulworth Cove, with a quick detour to the fossil forest, described as "one of the most complete fossilized forest of any age", now closed to the public due to access problems, still do-able though. Finally Lulworth Cove and back to the car. Lulworth Cove's great, though a tedious walk (as pebbles always are), especially at the end of a walk, and a notorious honey pot, especially on good days. A great walk, taxing, though well worth the inevitable aching to come.