Avebury beeches

Avebury beeches

Summer Solstice sunrise at Knowlton

I'd pondered where to spend the Summer Solstice sunrise and was glad that I'd decided on Knowlton Henge, a Neolithic Henge, part of a wider ritual complex embodying 5000 years of ritual activity, including the a ruinous post Medieval church. Even at 0430 as the sky began to colour, heralding the rising Sun, a crescent moon hanging magically above the nearby Great Barrow, it was warm enough to comfortably wear a t-shirt, amazing. Quite a few people had gathered to watch the sunrise, several of whom I knew, old freinds like Mick, who I've known for over 30 years and his girl friend Ang, Nick who I've known since the early 90's and member of the Dorset Grove who I'd not seen in a while; it's always nice to catch up with good people, it's something I need to do more and there's no excuse not too, only the barriers my mind creates. The Sun rose majestically, beautifully through the morning clouds. I say to myself every time I watch the sun rise 'I must do this more often', though still only manage it on the 8 days ascribed as important by my path. I left the henge with my spirits lifted and a smile on my face, though still with a corner of melancholia in my heart at how much I've changed. I hope the seeds of dreams and plans you planted in spring are blooming nicely. Solstice blessings y'all. 

Prehistoric Dorset (Iron Age)

There was just one Iron Age stop today on our prehistoric odyssey, that of Eggardon Hill, but what a stop. If there's one prehistoric monument Dorset excels at it's Hillforts. Well, Dorset also excels at Barrows, but in this period, the Iron Age, it's Hillforts. Dorset has some of the finest and best preserved Hillforts in the country, an none more so than Eggardon Hill. I'd chosen Eggardon as I knew my friend had not been before, and I love seeing peoples expressions upon visiting some of these sites for the first time. I wasn't disappointed. Set high above the glorious landscape of West Dorset, overlooking the coast and Blackmore Vale and with 360 degree views, you really get a sense of how imposing hillforts must have been and the powerful statement they must have made. A truly stunning site and setting. Eggardon lies within the territory of the Durotriges, an powerful Iron Age tribe who occupied a large number of forts, minted their own coinage  and would have been big players in the region. Eventually, like most of the Iron Age/Celtic tribes who weren't already clients of the Roman Empire, the coming of Vespasian and the Legions did for them ( coincidentally, a Roman road passes nearby). Eggardon Hill has never been excavated, so much about it remains a mystery, a time capsule. What is clear to see though is the defencive strength of the site, positioned towards the end of a high spur it's imposing ramparts and ditches are augmented by naturally steep hillsides on all but one side of its trapezoid -ish shape, the only perceptable weak point being the eastern entrance approached long the flat ridge, although it's the shortest section of rampart and ditch and I should imagine would have been the focus of defence in times of attack. Sections of the southern ramparts appeared confused, a quite common and intentional feature of hillforts designed to disorientate attackers, although looking at aerial views of the site it's clearly evidence of later quarrying. From Eggardons ramparts you can see several other local hillforts, including Dorsets' highest, Pilsden Pen to the west (the flat topped hill in the distance of the bottom photo). I'd not visited the site for years and on arrival was blown away by the views as if a new, all Dorsets' hillforts are worth a visit, but some are really worth a visit, not just for their archaeological nature but for the stunning setting and views, Eggardon is one of those. Lovely.

Prehistoric Dorset (Bronze Age)

We're moving through time to the Bronze Age, well the end of the Neolithic in to Bronze Age, society is changing as are the settlement types, ritual monuments and burials. Dorset contains a number of Bronze Age monumental remains (particularly round barrows which are not represented in this post), we see the emergence of single standing stones, or linear stone setting and of course that most enigmatic of monument, the stone circle. 

First we have an isolated standing stone of a considerable size, the Kingston Russell Standing Stone. Set low in coombe below the extensive prehistoric landscape of Martin Down and Black Down towards the end of the Dorset Ridgeway (on private land behind some ostentatious black ironwork fencing and gates, but don't let that deter you, follow the nearby public footpath and easy access will become evident), the Kingston Russell Standing Stone is one of that mysterious class of monument, the isolated standing stone or monolith.  Very beginning of 2010; a Space Odyssey. The function of these monoliths is uncertain, although some may have celestial alignments, others may have formed markers on ceremonial ways where activities were performed as part of a protracted ritual, many have legends of healing associated with them, evidence of some folk memory maybe? Or just myths. What is known is that monoliths are not unique to the Bronze Age nor to Britain, with thousands identified around the world, suggesting something universal in this monument form. The Kingston Russell Standing Stone is of an impressive size and worth a visit, being obscured in its setting it's often overlooked.

Next, the Kingston Russell Stone Circle. First I have to say how disappointed, no, outraged I was at the condition of the site, cattle have been allowed to churn the site up, really doing some damage to the ground surface and if continued in time will seriously degrade the site (as with other archaeological sites, in the past its also seen ploughing too close to it). It doesn't take much thought. Enough though. The Kingston Russell Stone Circle lies about half a mile from the Neolithic long barrow of Grey Mare and her Colts, again on the Dorset Ridgeway. The 360 degree views are impressive, if any of the prehistoric practices at the site involved fire, it would have been visible for 10s of miles in all directions. The circle or rather oval-ish circle, comprises of 18 now recumbent stones, many of which are broken (there may more buried and the ones we can see might not be in their original positions), they are either of sarsen or some conglomerated stone which looks like lumps of pebble-dash, both types locally sourced, as I said it's an oval-ish shape of 27m at its largest.  I mentioned it's proximity to a Neolithic monument, stone circles appear first during the transition between the Neolithic and Bronze Age as new ritual and burial practices and material cultural items are embraced, a connection between the people associated with both sites is possible, distantly related group or family, or maybe it was just that that location in the landscape was significant. As with so much prehistory and prehistoric activity, it can only be hypothesized about, so let your imaginations run riot, no dragons though. There are two more stone circles locally at Hampton (2 miles east) and Nine Stones (4 miles north-east).  I like this site and in the past have spent some time just sitting (sometimes sleeping) within its bounds, a good spot for a picnic too. Lovely.

Prehistoric Dorset (The Neolithic Long Barrows)

  Dorset contains many excellent examples of Neolithic Long Barrows. Long Barrows were multiple burial monuments associated with the first farming communities, long earthen mounds sometimes covering a wooden mortuary enclosure or building, and sometimes a stone chamber or chambers.  There are differing interpretations of use and function, as individual sites throw up a variety of clues. They could represent the tombs of important families, maybe 2 or 3 generations. They could represent statements on land tenure. They could represent broader communal burials, with some having contained 50 or more  sets of remains. There is evidence of bones being reused and replace, maybe a form of ancestor worship. Or, it could be all of the above or something completely different. That's both the frustration and joy of prehistory. What I can say is, they took considerable effort and resources to build, and so must have been important to those constructing them.

Top is all that remains of the Long Barrow at West Compton, set on a high exposed ridge, the mound is all but gone and only 2 stone remain (or at remain visible). Increasingly when I visit sites I see the plough creeping closer and closer, here the area where the mound and ditches would have been is under the plough, probably destroyed, erased from the archaeological record (solemnly shakes head) rather than retained and the stones sit in isolation and increasingly out of any context. Still, it's a nice site to visit.

Next, is the Grey Mare and her Colts, the best preserved Long Barrow in Dorset (for stone setting at least, there are Barrows with more complete mounds, and probably some undisturbed). Set on the Dorset Ridgeway (an area crammed with prehistoric remains), you can see a considerable distance in all directions. Much of the mound has disappeared, and the burial chamber has collapsed in on itself, though some of the uprights of the large stone façade remain standing and evidence of a possible surrounding stone kerb are visible. Excavated in the 19th century, the chamber yielded quantities of human bone and some Neolithic pottery.  A really nice site to visit.

Finally, the Hell Stone. Again on the Ridgeway, the Hell Stone is a bit of an anomaly as it has clearly suffered from a 'romantic' restoration in the late 19th century, making it great visually, although in no way reflecting its original appearance.  A cluster of large upright stones support a substantial cap stone, there is also evidence of a long mound, although this is truncated and very eroded.  Again, this is a really nice site to visit and even if it doesn't reflect the original form, it is a Neolithic Long Barrow site.

Rampart Ramsons

The predominantly Oak canopy of Mistleberry Wood is still bare, as is its coppiced Hazel under-story, but as the ground warms the woodland is coming to life.  All over new life is preparing itself. The two most dominant plants in this particular woodland are the Ramson and Bluebell, the former by far the leader. Even at this early stage of the year the ramparts of Mistleberry Woods' prehistoric bank and ditch feature are swathed in young Ramsons, with even more just poking through the leaf litter.  It'll still be some time before flowers fill the woods, but when in full flower these woods will be filled with their pungent garlic aroma. Ramsons (Allium ursnium) are a really versatile wildfood resource, often found in damp ancient woodland, use them in salads, as a vegetable or just as a flavouring herb, add them to soups and breads, make wild garlic pesto, all the parts of the plant are edible, and where they grow, they often flourish, so are in bountiful supply when in season.  Two notes of caution, mind. Firstly, the have been confused with Lilly of the Valley, although all of the parts of the Ramson smell of garlic which help allay any confusion. Secondly, be careful when using, how much you use, I have found to the cost of several meals, how powerful a flavour Ramsons have and how easy it is to use too much.  All the constituents of  a wild spring green soup are coming together nicely, not long now.