Bone dry brook

Even Geoff with his magnificent water detecting skills was for the most part out of luck on this morning's walk. Both Dockens Water and Latchmoor Brook were bone dry, at least on the surface anyway. Shocking as it may appear, and not wishing to downplay climate change, on this occasion it's not uncommon for the forest's streams to show the naked bottoms; it's for how long that could be the sign of longer term environmental change. All that said, further up the brook shallow murky puddles could still occasionally be found enduring...much to Geoff's delight; luckily our route passed Eyeworth Pond we're he could ditch the murk.

Bratley Water

Looking over Bratley Water towards Bolderwood from Bushy Bratley.

From tiny acorns

The oaks are smothered with tiny acorns this year, quite the contrast to last summers near bare boughs. A good sign maybe for a fruitful pannage in autumn; last years pannage was very thin on the ground for the foraging pigs. Still, nothing is guaranteed, and without some much need rain I don't know how well this crop will develop. 

Burley Old

After 10 miles walking, another early start saw Geoff and I a mile out from the car shortly after 0800, just as the sun broke through the post dawn cloud, illuminating Burley Old. Again the forest had been ours alone to walk; and I ain't complaining.

Mud club

 

If NASA want to find water on a planet, forget sending a rover, send a retriever. I don't know how the bugger does it, no matter how arid, Geoff will find water. That said, water's not really a problem, mud on the other hand requires my participation in it's removal; and so a short distance on we reached Red Rise Brook where we undertook the ritual struggle which is cleaning Geoff's face.

Joan Russell

As I made my way up Bidcombe Hill I noticed what looked from a distance like remnants of a military structure or some such; I was mistaken though, it's a substantial block of shaped quarried stone. Facing the rising sun on the cleanly finished east facing surface is inscribed 'Joan Russell 1927 - 2003' underneath which 'Bernard Russell 1924 - 2011'. I had no idea who Joan and Bernard where, and after searching the internet I still don't; the block is on a list of public art as a 'Memorial and sculpture', although no further information is included; it's recorded on other sites such as Geograph too, although again, no detail is included. A mystery memorial it is then. Nice spot though, and I'd bet a lovely place to watch the sunrise.

Bidcombe Hill

Again I unexpectedly found myself out and about with several hours to pass; this time in Southwest Wiltshire. What to do on an exceptionally hot and sunny day I thought, I know, I'll get closer to the sun by walking up onto one of the exposed chalk grassland hills of the region; common sense sometimes eludes me. I don't know this area, though the highest point close to where I was Bidcombe Hill; the obvious choice then. Cold Kitchen Hill, Whitecliff Down and Brims Down form a bowed ridge with Bidcombe Hill as it's highest point at 297m. Once up there the high downs afford stunning views in all directions across the rolling Wiltshire countryside; making a heavy 8 mile walk (and blimey was it hot, little to no breeze either), well worthwhile. I'm always grateful for the opportunity to walk somewhere totally new; the elation of experiencing a landscape and it's vistas for the first time, there's a unique magic to those walks.   

Kimmeridge

This morning I unexpectedly found myself on the Isle of Purbeck with a couple of hours to pass. I'm not complaining; being a term time Monday the Kimmeridge bowl was thin on walkers, and with most visitors congregating at the focal point of the beach I had the ridge walk to myself. Originally I'd thought to walk the under-cliff eastwards, though the tide wasn't out that far so I decided to walk out to Swyre Head; I'd forgotten how steep the rough track up towards the Head is.  Although a reasonable breeze blew, you only felt and benefited from it when in the shade, out in the sun it was proper roasting, and the entire walk out to the head and back is exposed. Lovely walk mind, with wonderful views too, though I was grateful for the opportunity at the end of the walk to sit awhile in the shade of a clump of ash trees on the ridge just above Kimmeridge village, where the cooling breeze took no time to revive me. Nice impromptu walk. 

Sunset

 Another fine sunset.

Early doors

It was early doors for Geoff and I this morning and, man, was the fresh forest lovely; all rich colour and wonderful light. With his dense coat Geoff doesn't favour this hot weather, so we were up at 0400, and by 0520 were already under the canopy as the sun rose and flooded the stands. Deer featured prominently on our walk, they appear to be omnipresent, with groups and individuals everywhere; I mean everywhere. In fact even before our walk, two stags had emerged from the high roadside bracken directly in front of us requiring me to test the brakes, and test my sphincter; luckily both passed.  The early forest was ours for the majority of our walk, which is always nice; the popularity the forest endured during the early period of covid appears to have abated (touch wood); although I still have issues and concerns around the over promotion, and consequent commodification, of the forest...although that's another ramble. After a 10.5 mile walk taking in the wonders of the summer forest we were back at the car before 0900, with the day still ours. Well worth getting up early for.

Beside the seaside

 

Oh I do like to live beside the seaside, oh I do. The view from the 'High Cliff' which gives Highcliffe it's current name; well, Highcliffe on Sea, if you want to pretentious about it, as some of our would be lardy da types do; delusions of grandeur really for a village which until the late 19th century was called 'Slop Pond'. Though I digress. From near to far we have; Christchurch Bay; Mudeford Quay, and the 'Run'; Christchurch Harbour and Hengistbury Head; Bournemouth Bay, with the just visible line of sand being the dunes of Studland Beach; capped off by the Isle of Purbeck at the western end of the Purbeck Ridge, including the high point of Godlingston Hill. Not a bad view really.

Ooooh!

 Magnificently coloured sunset

The Boys

I'm constantly surprised, and somewhat concerned, by the increasing carefree nonchalance of the forest's deer; Geoff and I sat in plain sight watching a group of young stags for 10 mins, and the boys continued their grazing as if we weren't there. How rude. Don't they know that historically Geoff and I represent their biggest predatory threat, well, not us personally, but humans and canines; where's the acknowledgement of our predatory prowess? That said, they could obviously see that we were nothing but a pair of harmless chumps. Still, on a serious note, I've noticed that over the years how the forest's deer have become far less concerned about humans than they used to be, or maybe should be; back in the day they'd have been gone at the mere hint of us, and to see a deer close up was a rare treat. 

1877

I spotted this old piece of graffiti on a Beech near the Knightwood Oak; I love finding old graffiti, even more so when it's connected, or maybe connected, to historical events. 1877 is the year of the 'New Forest Act' which restricted the creation of any further large forestry enclosures in order to protect the Commoner's grazing land, it also recognised the open woodland as 'ancient' and re-establish the Verderer's Court which had previously been dissolved. There's something carved above the date, though whether it's letters and/or a symbol are uncertain due to distortions in the bark. I have to wonder if this double underlined date is in recognition of the Commoner's victory?

Revived

The forest's streams were becoming more gravel and murky puddle than stream, to the point where I cringed a bit when Geoff went in for a drink and a cool; thankfully recent rains has revived the forest tributaries fortunes, and once again they're flowing clean. Passing Blackensford Brook Geoff had an encounter with one of this season's young colts; the foal was fascinated by Geoff, and even though his mother clearly was intimating caution, the foal was determined to take a closer look. Geoff sat, patiently and somewhat nervously, as the foal approached, they eyed each other a while, then their noses touched; it was a beautiful moment, a rare one too, foals don't commonly behave like that; this young colt showed great character. Sadly, no photo of the event was captured (well, not be me anyway), as being surrounded by skittish mares I was more concerned with taking in the moment, ..... and monitoring our safety.   

Mega structure

You'll see some good sized Wood Ants nests around the forest, although this one was something else; no doubt built on a rotting stump it stood at maybe 1.2m or more high. A nest this substantial could accommodate up to 250,000 Formica rufa ants; the mound seethed and it's surrounds were alive with the distinctive red and black ants. Quite the sight. Almost immediately I was under siege from the colony's inhabitants, or at least under investigation. Consequently I took my shot and moved away; although not a threat, wood ants do secrete formic acid (the same acid which produces the sting from nettles) and can spit their acid several feet when pissed. What's really amazing is that there were a dozen or more nests of various sizes in closish proximity; there must be so many ants out there.

Natures larder

These uncertain times have brought the fragility of the mechanisms which support and sustain us into sharp focus. It's said that we're only nine meals from anarchy, and I think that'd be a fair assumption. Hyperbole? Maybe. Although the fabric of society is already worn thin, with derision and division common as the façade of civility slips. There are several scenarios I can envisage where a knowledge of wild food resources and where to acquire them becomes invaluable. That in mind, I try as often as possible I to utilize wild food resources when they present themselves; not only do they make a welcome addition to the pot, engaging the foraging muscle also helps to keep it sharp. Today's find, a tidy clump of Oyster Mushroom (Pleurotus ostreatus); a common fungi found throughout the year on deciduous trees (in my experience, beech), especially after rains when you'll regularly find sprawling assemblages of them; a good edible, and one that's difficult to misidentify (never collect any wild food you're not 100% with). Until relatively recently an understanding of natures larder would have been commonplace, learnt in childhood and utilized through life, as had their ancestors into the mists of time, a lineage unbroken; not so much now though.

Rain drops keep falling

It may well be summer, although in traditional British fashion it rained for most of our walk this morning, and quite heavily at points. Throughout the stands the forest's Foxgloves (Digitalis purpurea) had their heads bowed in gratitude.....well, either that or in submission. 

Stinkhorn

A Common Stinkhorn (Phallus impudicus) erupts through the lush mossy carpet which covers the floor of Holidays Hill's mainly coniferous enclosure. 

Pyramidal Orchid

Either standing alone or in diffuse clusters, Pyramidal orchids (Anacamptis pyramidalis) are a common sight throughout the rough chalk grassland at this time of year. A beauty to behold.

Summer Solstice

Surely the year's wheel is turning too fast? Can it really be the midsummer already? Yes; Alban Hefin is upon us.  The Holly King maybe born and, mostly imperceivable until the equinox, the day's light will begin to decline; for now though the Sun King sits upon the thrown, surveying the flourishing landscape about him; he's at the pinnacle of his rule, his crown secure, his light shining strong; enjoy the halcyon days of summer. Solstice blessings. /|\

Ash die back

Ash Die Back or Charala (Hymenoscyphus fraxineus) got a foot hold in British forests because our national bio-security has been piss poor, too often trumped by commercial interests and the pursuit of profit; and it's not the only disease or pest threatening our flora and fauna either. Ash (Fraxinus) makes up 20% of British woodland, that's a lot of threatened woodland, man; and scientists suggest up to 90% of our Ash trees could be lost! Ash dominated the woodlands known as 'Under Win Green' and 'Water Gutter' which cling to the combes below Win Green Clump, today though they're a sorry sight. I first explored these woods whilst on a hazelnut collecting mission some 30 years ago; I've always liked exploring, and there weren't the 'Private' signs there are now....well, I didn't see them.  It's terrible to see these and other woodlands so badly ravaged by Ash Die Back, but more than that, it's infuriating knowing it probably could've been avoided, or at least abated with due diligence. I'm old enough to remember the carnage wreaked by Dutch Elm Disease; it's inconceivable to think we didn't learn and therefore are destined to relive the experience.

Chase Woods

Chase Avenue; the great beech avenue running through Chase Woods.

 

Ooh!

Ooh, this is the third or forth morning in row now that we've had a fairly hard dusting of frost. I'm glad I've not got anything in the ground yet down the lotty; the last few years of increasingly predictable unpredictable weather has taught me that early planting isn't necessarily the good strategy is was.

Backley

The Sun may have been out over the forest this morning, and lovely it was too; the winds though were bitter, coldest for a while I reckon. With the beautiful days we've enjoyed recently it's been easy to imagine winter vanquished; it isn't though, and we should remember we're not yet beyond the reach of winter's icy fingers.

The Ebble Valley

 

View over the Ebble Valley from South Down on the Ridge Way ox drove.

Walking through the history

Another early start found us in the Chase again; another traverse of the Ebble Valley, a completely different route from last week though, and slightly shorter at 12.7 miles. Walking these chalk downland tracts you know you're walking through the history. From earliest prehistory Cranborne Chase has drawn folk to it; there's evidence for Mesolithic hunter gathers having a substantial presence here; early Neolithic farmers created a ritual landscape rich in monuments; by the Bronze Age agrarian settlements and field systems are well established and this continues through the Iron Age with the addition of Hillforts; the Romans farmed here; many of the current villages and hamlets began life during the Saxon period; the Medieval period added hunting forests; since then farming in one form or another has continued to dominate, and the landscape and life of the chase changed little until the 20th century. And you see that patina of human endeavour spanning millennia etched into this landscape wherever you look; you can't help but feel the ancestors when you're walking the rough tracks countless generations walked before you. The chase is a landscape soaked with history; and some of the best walking you'll find.

Wooden deer

A wooden doe suns herself amongst Holiday Hill's stands.

Nearly groundhog sunset

Another mellow sunset from Barton on Sea. I'm always banging on about how every sunset is unique, how you'll never see 'that' sunset again, and of course that's true; but beyond some richer hues of colour, there was more than a passing resemblance between this evening's and last evening's sunsets.

Purbeck Wall Lizard

The Wall Lizard (Podarcis muralis) isn't one of our native reptile species, although there are now several colonies dotted around Southern England, especially Purbeck, and climate change is encouraging their flourishing; Winspit Quarry has had a healthy colony since the mid 80's. I've read two accounts of how these reptiles arrived in Purbeck; either they escaped from a local breeder/owner, or were purposely bred and released.  Whichever, they're certainly established now.  I don't know how the other colonies are doing, but the Winspit massive appears to be thriving; we saw dozens of wall lizards, and the undergrowth sounded alive with them. 

Winspit

Destination Purbeck again this morning, this time the post industrial landscape of Winspit. I don't know when it began operations, though until 1940 Winspit was a a stone quarry producing high quality stone for use in important London buildings. Over the years it's been a location for numerous TV and film projects including Dr Who, most recently for one of the forthcoming Star Wars series 'Andor' set before the events of 'Rogue One'. Winspit is a rugged terrain of dangerous caves, mining waste and rocky cliffs. All the works of man haven't been able to tame or take the wild from this landscape, it's magnificent; beautiful on a sunny day like today, awe inducing in a storm, and always atmospheric.

Sunset

This evening's sunset from Barton on Sea.

Cranborne Chase

 

It was destination Cranborne Chase this morning, an early start too, and it was glorious; a 14.7 mile traverse of the Ebble Valley in the best early spring has to offer; we were out early enough that we didn't see another soul until nearly halfway through our walk, and no more than a handful throughout our journey. I value all the seasons and their varied aspects, though for me the it has to be spring and autumn that I most enjoy and connect with; the energy of spring is particularly tangible, and visible in every corner of the landscape. Following ancient droves, tracks and paths we wound our way down through, across, and up the other side of the beautiful Ebble Valley. By the time we reached Chiselbury Camp Iron Age Hillfort on the Old Shaftesbury Drove the sun 's warmth had wrestled victory from the early morning chill, and it felt as if all nature rejoiced; I certainly did. Sat on Chiselbury camp's defencive bank we had clear views across the lovely Nadder Valley, Salisbury in one direction Shaftesbury in the other. Above us in a clear blue sky half a dozen birds of prey circled gracefully as they eyed breakfast, most striking though was the Skylark song which filled the air above the camp and surrounding grass downland. We could've sat here all day, it was a perfect English rural scene; though we weren't finished, and it was back down to Broad Chalke and a welcome dip in and drink from the Ebble for Geoff, then the long climb back up to the Ridgeway and journey's end. All achieved before midday; nice. 

Keep walkin

'Keep Walkin' carved in what felt like sinister font into a veteran tree aside the Old Salisbury Drove; encouragement or a warning I thought? This is the countryside after all, 'gat off moi land' and all that; so with that in mind we continued on our way......toot suite.

Spring Equinox

 

Light's been in ascendance since the Sun's return at the Winter Solstice, and now the Sun's reign begins proper. With growing warmth everything throughout nature stirs; verdant new shoots reach for the sky as spring blooms and blossoms; across the open fields hares box and race; in the forest the mares will soon be giving birth; whist the chorus of excited song from hedgerow and canopy is universal. An equinox blessing to y'all at this moment of awakening; game's on.