Studand

 

May through September dogs are required to remain on their leads throughout the Studland and Godlingston national nature reserve. So this morning was our first walk here since April, and it was lovely to be back. So much change. The beach and dunes are quite a fluid environment always in flux and some cliff collapse at Redend Point were natures contribution to change, though it was the hand of man which was most noticeable. Middle Beach has been transformed, the stone filled gabbions are gone, as is the slipway, and all signs of the former parking area and café, the road down now truncated just hangs there. The only reminder that there was ever anything here are the line of slighted World War Two anti-tank obstacles in the intertidal. One thing that hasn't changed is the Type 25 pillbox on the beach below Redend Point, testament to 1940's engineering maybe, even though undertaken in a hurry and under duress. I remember the pillbox being half way up the cliff in the late 1970's, and I imagine it was once stood on the top of the head close to the nearby Fort Henry.  

Silent sands

The tide was out and from Shell Bay all the way to North Beach we had Studland beach to ourselves, and it was glorious.

Studland

Geoff and I had the beach between Shell bay and North Beach to ourselves this morning, not a soul in sight. Morning walks like this are elevated to spiritual experiences, opportunities to commune with nature.

Golden dawn

 

Not the clear sky foretold by the weather wizards, though a lovely early morning nevertheless. Our first walk these ways since the beginning of spring; through the summer dogs need to be on the lead, and anyway, the beach is often rammed. This morning the beach was ours. Geoff ran in huge circles, occasionally ducking into the sea or rolling in the sands, he loves it here, from the moment we hit the sands he was off. Me? I just soaked up, it was so peaceful, just the elements and us, a little piece of wild to unwind in. Beautiful. The Isle of Purbeck retains a certain wild magic all of it's own, ever present and almost tangible.

Return to Studland

 

Studland beach is off limits to hounds between May and September, which is reasonable, though with October here the magnificent dune backed sands are once again accessible. What a joy to be back, what a glorious sunrise to welcome our return, and what a fabulous walk; Shell Bay to Swanage and back via Ballard Down and the end of the Purbeck ridge. Whether it was the beautiful walking conditions, or the coffee and cake that fuelled my return leg, but the walk passed easier than I'd expected... you can't underestimate the sustaining qualities of coffee and cake! Ever been to Swanage? It's great, a traditional seaside town in a beautiful setting, pretty much as I remember it in the 70's and 80's; a rare thing.

Studland beach

You know it must be bloody cold out when Jack Frost is able to leave his mark on the salty environment of coastal sands; but this morning he did, and in spades. Nice out though, and as usual with an early start on our outward stretch we had the beach to ourselves. It was an early start too, as yet again the chain ferry between Sandbanks to South Haven Point is out of action and we had the long drive around Poole Harbour (25 miles or so); the ferry was supposed to be back running weeks ago after a service, although it was badly damaged on it's journey to Falmouth for aforementioned service so wont return until the end of February at the earliest. It's fated to troubles, man, it seems to have suffered issue after issue in recent years.

Studland dawn

As much as I love the forest, and I do, it's ease being as it is on my doorstep sometimes leads me to neglect the other local landscapes in my holy trinity, Cranborne and the wonderful Isle of Purbeck. With the summer dog walking restrictions lifted we rectified that, and this morning we watched the Sun rise on Studland beach. As we made our way around Shell Bay, with a grey mass of cloud hanging on the horizon I wondered whether we'd see the Sun rise at all,  although as we approached Studland Bay the clouds yielded at the appropriate moment, and very nice it was too. We were early enough to be the first ones on the beach and so had the broad sands to ourselves from the ferry all the way to Knoll Beach, about 2.5 miles; after that it was up on to Ballard Down, round Old Harry and back along a beach by now well populated; lots of dogs so Geoff was happy.

Studland

We returned to Studland this morning, this time for a more pedestrian roam that yesterday's 9.2 mile speed march from Shell Bay over Ballard Down and back; exhilarating as that was. I love this sandy peninsular, it's deeply layered in memories for me; I remember summer days here as a child, I've walked it's beaches and dunes countless times over the years, had my first psilocybin experience amongst it's dunes, slept in it's dunes, spent years meticulously recording the areas unique Second World War archaeology, and most memorably, the endless happy hours on adventures with my kids. It's beyond a doubt one of our regions most precious gems; you know, it blows me away when I mention Studland or Purbeck to local people, or at least people who've lived here for years, and they either don't know either or have heard of them though never/rarely visit! Today was a perfect winter walk.

Studland sunrise

Bastard weather wizards! It'll be sunny they predicted, then, it'll be sunny with a scattering of clouds, and throughout they claimed less than 5% chance of rain. So after our recent visit to Studland I resolved to return this morning to catch the sunrise and take a walk; what with it going to be such a good day. I mumbled curses as just before dawn, having risen ridiculously early to get here, we wandered up the coast towards the wall of grey cloud which hugged the horizon, through cold raking winds and mizzle...bastard weather wizards! To be fair, it must be increasingly hard to accurately predict weather as our climate deteriorates, and, they did suggest cloud and rain, even if it was only 5%, and, if I was honest I protested too much as I didn't really care, just being here was good enough. That said, the morning predicted would've been preferable. Anyway. The beach was ours, not another soul in sight as we made our way along the shore. Then, as is often the way, nature rewards your endeavours and the sun rose through a break in the clouds, bathing the beach in the most wonderful light. As Geoff explored, I stood and marvelled at nature's glory, lost in the moment I was taken by a mild euphoria at the beauty of everything; my photos really don't do the light justice. Facing the sun I took three breathes and chanted the Awen; I love that fleeting heightened clarity you experience after chanting. The moment was perfect.  I declared that if this was the best the day could offer and the rest of the day returned to grey, I'd gratefully take that. The sun shone it's golden light for 10 minutes or so before again disappearing beyond the grey veil which by now was obscuring virtually any hint of blue; and it was indeed the best, sunniest, moment the day offered...and I continued to be grateful for it. We did 13.8 miles today too; Shell Bay, Studland Beach, inland at North Beach, across Godlingston Heath to Rempstone, up onto Nine Barrow Down, before descending again to retrace our route back to Shell Bay. On the way back I thought a guy approaching me along the beach was wearing a pink tracksuit or similar, until he got closer and I realised he was a cooked lobster coloured naturist; that's dedication to your path, man. Great day.

Viene una tormenta

Viene una tormenta! Ain't that the truth, man, in more ways than the obvious one.

Muted day at the bay

A muted day was had amongst the dunes of Studland Bay. That's no slight mind. A mottled sky of grey blue hues, a soft light upon the landscape, and the gentle breeze which made the grasses intermittently dance, all had a subtle beauty of their own.