Chapmans Pool to St Aldhelm's Head and back again; part 3, Emmetts Hill

Rested and St Aldhelm's Head conquered, it was time for the return leg of the walk. The views from St Aldhelm's Head along the Jurassic coast are outstanding; different headlands and coastal features highlighting the regions unique geological mix of limestones, chalks, clays and sands; a World Heritage Site after all. You'd have hoped that reaching the top of the head the walking thereafter would all be relatively level, but you'd be mistaken; first the two huge sets of stairs that run down, through, and up the other side of a steep sided valley between St Aldhelm's Head and Emmetts Hill had to be conquered. The stairs down are one thing, the stairs up are something else; though once completed the remainder of the walk is a cakewalk; follow the well trodden cliff top path that winds around Emmett's Hill, and take in the lovely vista of Chapmans Pool and the coast beyond as you go. At just 4 miles, not a long walk; although beyond the very beginning and the Emmett's Hill section, it was technical and challenging throughout. You can't beat walking in Purbeck for blowing away the cobwebs.

Houns Tout loop

Today we were back out to Purbeck, well, it would be rude not to on a morning as glorious as this. Today we took the ridge out to Houns Tout from Kingston, it was lovely. For me, the views from the ridge into the Encombe Valley and over towards Swyre Head never lose their shine, nor do those from Houns Tout, which was windswept. I'm not too fond of heights and the Tout is exposed with a narrow path across it, quite nerve wracking, although nothing compared with the steep descent towards Chapmans Pool with an excited Geoff, the angle of the slope and the length of Geoff's lead were at odds with each other. I calmed myself with a mantra of profanity, usually works. There are very steep steps down, a lot of steps, steps which feel too close together, and as so are hard to negotiate. It was not a comfortable descent, and I was grateful to reach the bottom of the steps without incident, then promptly fell on my arse...gave me a laugh. One last look across Chapmans Pool at Emmett's Hill and St Aldhelm's Head beautifully illuminated in the autumn sun, and it was back off towards Kingston.  A bracing, if not briefly terrifying, Sunday walk.

Jurassic

Walking in the footsteps of dinosaurs today, the Jurassic Coast. Rugged and timeless, the Isle of Purbeck is a landscape of wonders. Not a long walk  though a walk taking in some stunning views, Chapmans Pool, Emmett's Hill, St Aldhelm's Head, a perfect day for it too.

St Aldhelm's Head to Emmett's Hill

The path between St Aldhelm's Head to Emmett's Hill.

St Aldhelm's Head and Chapmans Pool

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We were over Purbeck today, exploring the rugged terrain of the Jurassic Coast, and to make it more challenging, for most of the walk (walk really being a misnomer) we created our own route over, or followed animal tracks over, a rough boulder strewn landscape, across acute slopes of loose dried clay or through a dense carpet of bramble and thorn.  It made for an interesting outing. It started with a bracing stroll out to Houns Tout with its beautiful views into the Encombe Bowl and the Jurassic Coast as it unfolds west, before we descended to Chapman's Pool. Between Chapman's Pool and the western slope of St Aldhelm's Head there has always been a narrow path, it's course would occasional change, through the path remained a constant, not so now. Although some sections of the path remain, for the most part the path is gone; the sea has eroded so much in recent years, the coast is raw and fluid, blasted with pebbles flung by the waves. There's no path to follow. There's something primeval about making your own way through nature, you are forced to take notice of your surroundings more, to look ahead as well as your footfall. Over the years, as with everywhere else, the brambles here have invaded and colonized the boulders, rocks and quarry waste beneath St Aldhelm's Head, they tangle your feet or rap themselves around your legs with incredible efficiency, they really are a pain the arse.  Though the views we were afforded as we moved up and around the headlands were more than compensation for our injuries. Eventually we climbed out of the old quarry mouth, turning to take in the dramatic view back into the quarry and the sea a 100 meters below us. It struck me how green the post industrial landscape had become, when we started coming here in the 80's the scene was one of starkness a bare stone landscape. How much its changed. The views from St Aldhelm's Head in all directions are phenomenal. Kicking back in a depression of long rough grass, I think, I could lay here all afternoon soaking in the autumn sun and scenery.  Though we're not sat for long, before it's off west in the direction of Emmett's Hill and Chapman's Pool. This time the paths are defined and well kept, easier walking but for the deeply cut blunt valley between the two headlands, which is all steep stairs and aching. The light catches the cattle lines which mark the valley's steep grassy sides. It's not only the cattle tracks which are picked out, but also depressions and hollows, and a track which cuts diagonally across the slope and which once would have reached the tiny bay below, though now ends abruptly meters above the sea. A testament to the erosion of the years. Once around Emmett's Hill we drop into Hill Bottom, it's wooded core holds a secret. Over the fence (for sometimes you just must) and you're into a deeply cut wooded gorge through which a stream flows. A gentle stream today, though in the wet season a torrent. It's a magical place of gnarled trees, waterfalls, sparkling pools and luscious ferns. If you chose to get off the path and roam, nature will always show you her wonders.  We left Hill Bottom and made our way up through grassy fields and nettle choked footpaths until we'd returned to our start point in Kingston. Fabulous walk immersed in natures glory, in good company and under a generous Autumn sun.