Sunday 23 October 2016

Dartmoor

Dartmoor, forever you hold a piece of my heart captive; captivated as I am by your natural beauty and tangible spiritual energy.  I don't visit Dartmoor often any more (something I must rectify), though when I do my spirit soars. Today we took the path from New Bridge on the Holne side of the Dart up to Dartmeet. A path which starts of broad, then narrows and narrows, down to uneven and rocky winding single track, until finally the path exists only in your imagination, though you push on still. The moor is drier than I've known it at this time of year, and the walking easier for it. It's warm too, well, down in the steep closely wooded river valley anyway (it was a different story later when we made our way out of the valley and up onto the open moor above).  Immersed in this hidden woodland world which carpets the amazing River Dart valley, I feel connected to the land and nature in a tangible yet inarticulable way.   My imagination wanders, flitting from idea to idea like a coked up butterfly, I'm focused (you have to be walking in such a hazardous environment) and at the same time lost in each moment, each new vista, each new wonder. Lost in the enchanting wildness of it all. I strike out and have soon left my companions behind (if you walk with me, you'll know it's a bad habit of mine, unintentional, but still), I don't mean to, I can't help it, the land takes me, and I'm off, so absorbed.  At every turn there was something beautiful to see, it was magical. Noticed a couple of prime wild camping sites, which it would be rude not to investigate, in say, spring.

After an arduous 5 miles, or so, of rock jumping and scrambling up and down, we reached Dartmeet and the stepping stones on the East Dart. Last time we were here at this time of year, they were all but submerged in the torrent, not today though, where the river remained at summer levels, the stepping stone stood proud. We took the opportunity to cross the East Dart and visit the nearby ancient clapper bridge, which was nice. Soon though, after a short break, it was up out of the wooded Dart valley, up onto the exposed moor and Combestone Tor. Combstone Tor is not particularly grand, nor is one of the highest at only 356m asl, although it does afford some spectacular views down the Dart valley and over the moor. Man, the wind, though. It drove the chill air right through you and we didn't hang about for too long before deciding it would be prudent to return to the calm and relative warmth of the valley.  We didn't go all the way back down to the river at first, favouring instead a path running along the contours of the valley just within the woodland. This path had been well constructed (I think to carry a water pipe from the nearby Venford Reservoir), though now had fallen into disrepair in some sections and become overgrown in others, nevertheless, it was a lovely path and gave lovely views of the river below, as seen through the autumnal canopy. Man, the colours of the canopy! After a while we left the path in search of the Venford Brook waterfall, which we found with ease, although due the lack of water on the moor it wasn't as spectacular as it could've been; that said, it was still lovely and well worth the detour.  Then it was back down to the river and its hypnotic roar, past the deep clear pools and rumbling rapids, imagine walking through Rivendell, it was like that (I imagine).  The light was fading as we approached the car park, tired after an arduous 12 miles, our elation slowly replaced with the acceptance that the walk was over and the sadness that brings. Funny, however tired you feel walking, when you get near the car you always think 'you know, I could probably do a couple more miles'.  Too late for that though.

What a lovely day. I promised myself I wouldn't leave it so long before visiting again, I'm going to try for once a month.

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