Groynes

Type 22

A bracing wind wracked the coast this morning, above in grey skys sea birds hovered, glided and swooped amongst the chilling turbulence, as below wind driven waves, rushed, muddied brown with disturbance, creamy crested, towards the sloping shore, then crashed against the tumbled limestone groynes and roared up the pebble beach.   The cliffs here are historically unstable, requiring massive civil engineering works to retain them; the geology is gravel deposits capping a variety of clay horizons, these viscus with fluid lateral movement.  The area is important to both geologists and palaeontologists, with thousands of fossils 30 to million years old, deposited when the area was part of a large tropical lagoon.  A concrete type 22 pillbox rests a jaunty angle after years of slippage down the cliff side; the pillbox is a remnant of the coastal anti invasion defences which once protected the whole bay, a myriad of , bunkers, anti tank / anti personnel scaffold, barbed wire and mines.  Today only a handful of artifacts remain visible between Mudeford and Milford. 

Bartley Water

In to uncharted territory, through Rushpole Wood and Busketts Lawn Enclosure (1864),  following the course of Bartley Water, which will eventually flow in to Southampton water.  The section of stream through Busketts Lawn Enclosure is flanked by enormous Douglas Firs.  Bartley Water is fairly narrow in places only about 2m to 3m or so in places, broadening in others to 4m to 5m; it runs fast and deep with rich vibrant green mosses covering the top of the banks and waterside fringe. Amongst the moss fresh  fine water deposited sands are testament to the severity of the winters floods, as to reach theses mosses the water would have had to have risen 2m or 3m; making the total depth of flow over 4m.  The stream meanders wildly, at one point a set of meanders has been truncated, leaving an irregular oxbow lake now fed by much smaller water course.  As I turn a meander a pair of strangely coloured ducks take flight. Looking down at the water is like looking into a gorge, over vertical sides, even concave in places; frequently gullies and small tributaries feed the flow, after one fording place, Bartley Water takes on the guise of a proper small river.  I'll wander this way again. 

Primrose.

Primrose (Primula vulgaris) is my favorite spring flower, a native wild flower, always a joy to behold; that joy is enhanced many fold when finding them in the wild.  

Highland Water

Mark ash Wood

This part of the forest used to be a regular haunt, although of recent years it appears to have frequently dropped off the walk radar. The trees here have grown tall and proud, many over 3m in circumference; sadly though, the exposed yellow orange subsoils indicates another victim of the winter weather and in this section of Mark Ash several mature trees have succumbed.  The land undulates, gullies and shallow valleys stretch like fingers up from the lower ground surrounding the wood; seasonal watercourses flow through them, becoming permanent wet bog areas as they reach the lower stretches where they feed into one of the many tributaries, which themselves feed the woodland brooks and streams.   The land here feels old, the woods appear eternal, no uniformity found in the enclosures, even the old ones, just natural beauty.  Deer frequent the wood and several small groups are seen browsing; I creep up on a group of 3 deer and I'm doing well until a poorly placed foot brakes a fallen stick and the deer are gone, their white rumps disappearing into the thicket. 

Graffiti

It's dawned on me of late how much graffiti there is on the forest trees; some modern, others much older with some even dated; many are there due to location, close proximity to a picnic area or camp site other though appear out of the way or isolated.  All must have a story to tell and all set my mind on journeys; some have an obvious purpose marking or naming others though........  Recording them would be a good project. 

Redrise

Redrise Shade

Daffers

Linford Bottom is sodden, the clay paths badly churned, sloppy, making walking difficult; it's better to walk off the paths, the ground is firmer, easier going.  Through the loose woodland that fringes Linford Brook flashes of yellow and white amongst the tired browns and greys of winter; Daffodils, not the shop bought ones, rather our native, smaller, variety.  The brook darts through, moving with purpose, flushed with water from the recent rains.  Every now and again enclaves of spring have established themselves, a beach head for the burgeoning life waiting to burst forth.  A buzz saw roars from nearby Pinnick Wood as a broad swathe is cut, clearing the banks of a tributary of Linford Brook and creating an avenue of open space up towards Akercombe Bottom; it's not clear cutting mind, there are the occasional tree or small group of trees left.

Vinny Ridge

The sun is evident today, light streams through the trees, rays warm the land, adding brighter colour where for so long there has been only the subdued drained tones of last years pride; the sun, light as it is, brings the landscape to life.  Amongst the maturing Oaks of Vinny Ridge (1859), alongside Black Water, the winter flood waters have cut a myriad of channels, some shallow, no more than depressions, other deep cut through the clay heavy subsoils.  On the waters edge the turbulent flows of the season passed have exposed the roots of bank side trees, whose roots appear to cling to the bank like wooden fingers maintaining a tenuous grip. The water passes by burbling and bubbling, add the sound of many birds, of a woodpecker rhythmically pecking  and you have the sound track to the woods today.  Has spring sprung? not quite but it's ready. 

Archie

The smell of smoke still lingers amongst the trees and in the hollows from distant spring heath burning, mixed with fine mists, it clings to any surface.  Through the sodden branches dripping with liquid sunshine, grey clouds race across the skys. There are some crazy trees throughout the forest.  Today I met Archie, a  150 year oldish Beech who had this arch thing going on viva la difference.

Mr Blue skys

What a difference a day makes.  From yesterdays grey, cloud strewn skys to clear blue, other than a few fluffy clouds.  Yesterday on Picket plain the rain, driven by the wind, had soaked me only minuets into the walk. Today, the sun warms and spring is tangible in the air; bird song fills the trees, daffodils are open and all feels calm. 

Dolmen Grove Stonehenge

Vernal Equinox Stonehenge 2010

Though it wasn't cold, the sun couldn't be seen through a thick blanket of grey cloud, the air was damp, the wind blew; yet folk still gathered at the Stones; Rollo said lovely, as is his way, King Arthur shouted a bit, Dice George offered mumbled heckles whilst remembering a fallen Stonehenge supporter, noddies nodded, drummer drummed as the collection of brightly coloured, babbling nutbars, Druids, Pagans, misfits and the contingent of curious American visitors all welcomed in the spring. The sun may not have afforded the gathered Celebrants warmth, yet there was warmth, you could feel it amongst those ancient megaliths. Seasons greetings, a hope for burgeoning good fortune and a beautiful spring.

Holes

The forest returned to a more wintry feel again today; the air was chilled, the valleys shrouded in a mix of icy mists and wood smoke from forestry operations; plumes of smoke rose from several places around the forest and were clearly visible from the high ground of Picket Plain.  Descending down Marrow bones Hill towards the illustrated tree I took a route I had taken many times before and yet as I passed I noticed things I had previously overlooked.  Two circular depressions, if I were in Studland I would have thought them bomb craters, the a third larger hole, filled on one side by concrete debris...interesting.  This started a minor investigation.  Searching the undergrowth further, I found several old bottles, broken china, broken earthenware jar, brick fragments and iron work.  What was going on here, I don't yet know. 

Smokey

Deers

Two white female (Hinds) Fallow Deer (Dama dama) were casually making their way towards the Deer sanctuary at Bolderwood Farm, far too at ease with the nearby humans.  I've seen a few white Deer this winter, but never together; I've heard that there are two of a group of around 20 white fallow deer that roam the forest; I've never seen them.  They certainly stick out in both woodland and heath.  Their colour is caused by a gene and they are not, as people would think,  albinos. 

Crocus

A warming spring sun shines periodically from behind the cloud dappled sky, clouds which move with intent beyond the canopy, a barrier in motion to enjoying the sun as you'd like.  The mature Beech and Oak of the Old enclosure stretch their upper boughs and smaller limbs towards these skys; the forest feels ready to embrace the spring, having had its fill of the dank and cold.  Somewhere amongst the myriad of trees a Woodpecker sounds and as I pause, focusing to hear, I become aware of a cacophony of birds song; the forest sings.  Under foot the woodland floor is desiccated and brittle, crisp noisy leafs, all the energy they were has returned to the earth, readying for the emergence of springs  burgeoning. Protruding from the leaf litter is a single Crocus, a point of colour amongst the faded browns and oranges of last years glory; I passit again on my return and its delicate mauve petals have closed tight to the late afternoon chill.  Atop a knoll within the wooded enclosure are 2 mature Douglas Firs, tall and full, they stand out from the other trees, particularly at this time of year; taking the views through to Red Rise, it strikes me, the vista I'm enjoying will shortly be obscured as the tree adorn their leafy attire, closing in, creating secluded groves.  Stopping at one of the Douglas I inspect the bark for wounds where sticky resin may form; I collect some, as it warms between my fingers it releases a sweet pungent small.  At the next Fir I gather more, this time most is fresh, like clear honey; the smell hangs in the air.  Now two woodpeckers sound, one from either side of me.  The sun's been free of clouds for a while now, and as I make my way, my senses still swimming in the scent of resin, it becomes apparent to me ... I'm smiling a broad smile. Oh, the joys of the forest.

The Punisher; Dark Reign

The Punisher; Dark Reign is standard Punisher fare; well written, well thought out and nicely drawn and coloured.  Frank takes on Norman Osbourne AKA the 'Green Goblin' as his dark reign continues; using a alien sniper rifle the Punisher attempts to assassinate Osbourne but is thwarted by the intervention of 'sentry'. 

Setting sun

A busy day was brought to a close by a walk along the beach. The sun is going down, leaving a radiant glow on the horizon, with the disappearance of the sun beyond the Purbecks the air has taken on an additional chill.  The sea is calm and flat, allowing the colours of the sunset to be reflected.  Earlier in the day I'd been giving instruction on shelter building; how to build a bender using the roof beam techneque, as well how to use a basher; it went well, with lots of inovative shelter designs.  All round a productive and beautiful day.

Lotty

First visit to the lotty of the year; if only the plants you wanted grew as well as those you don't. There's allot of work to do, back aching digging over, strimming and cutting back; still, it'll look good when it's ready for action.  Now all we need is the retreat of Jack, the ground was frozen solid to cm deep! 

A chill wind

Although the sun shone brightly, I was right to dress prepared for winter weather. As I rose up Marrowbones Hill the sun warmed me, I even began to raise a sweat and imagined I'd overdressed for my walk; but on my arrival atop Ridley Plain it became apparent I had not. The wind, filled with eastern chill, cut across the higher plateau, scouring the land and my face; for the next 2 to 3 miles I pull the buff protecting my neck up over my nose and hunkered into the wind. The views across Akercome Bottom are glorious.  I'm passing, archaeology, a barrow from the Bronze age, years ago robbed out; past World War Two features, their purpose as yet unknown and then on into the dappled shade of Roe Enclosure.  The forest has many faces, all different, many striking in their beauty. 

Rockford

Rockford Common in the North of the forest, with views across to Ibsley Common and the Whitefeild Plantation in the center frame; open heathland at its finest.

Markway

Markway enclosure was one of the last phase of enclosures, having been created in 1959 in order to provide quick turn around timber, primarily for the construction trade I imagine. Now 60 years later, matured to fruition, it is being removed, opening up the heathland views and releasing ferny Knap enclosure. The removal has been ongoing for a few years now, with the early clearances regaining their natural heathland looks; the more recent sections look more like a battlefields; stumps, detritus and today as machines remodelled the land surface, smolding heaps the stumps and wood remains piled into large pyres to cash cropping. The smoke drifted through the remaining Pines, a sign to them of their impending fate.

Ferny knap

Ferny Knap is a small enclosure created in 1843, perched on a hillock overlooking the Ober Water valley and surrounded by heather rich heathland, with bog wetland filled gullies; like other enclosures, parts of it have been replanted with Pines, although some fine stands of adolescent Oaks remain.  Just over a 100 years later, in 1959,  Ferny was engulfed by by the later Markway enclosure; a modern money tree enclosure, where tightly planted Pines were cultivated as a cash crop.  The sun, although weak, shone through the trees casting light shadows, reminding one that the season is on the turn.  The smell of smoke, light but nevertheless tangible, drifted through the woodland from nearby forestry operations.

Today a large group of deer, enjoying the respite from the harsh cold,  spied me with suspicion, although not as much suspicion as they should an approaching human; over the last few years the deer population has increased significantly and they have become far to approachable.  That said, they pranced Merrily away when I drew too close, bouncing through the heather towards Ober Water as if it was all part of a game we were playing.

Trenches

Just beyond the boundary bank of Ferny Knap enclosure is a small group of, what I believe to be, World War Two trenches. The group, oval in nature, comprise of standard trench designs; 2 chevron, 1 zig zag section, 2 2 man and one individual fox hole. the are was well used during the war, although these represent the only trenches I have identified, other than the Battle field HQ group, in the forest. The boundary bank of Ferny Knap enclosure has been truncated in one section by what appears to have been a heavy tracked vehicle; the dimensions correspond with war time vehicles, there is evidence of tank tracks about a kilometre away and it would be interesting to see an areal photograph of the area just post war.  Such photos of the Studland area clearly show the tracks caused by tank / invasion training in 1943/1944 and the tracks can still be clearly seen in the landscape today, even after 65 years.  The area at Studland is very similar in nature the areas of the forest, heathland overlaying poor soils, there is no reason why more tracks shouldn't still be represented in the forest landscape.

Smokin

Smoke filled the sky over Milkham enclosure as forestry work continues to return the area to heathland. The land around the high section of Linford Brook is being cleared of Pines and other invasive shrubs, the ground cleared and the debris burned. The Milkham enclosure was originally enclosed in 1861, although like many others saw some of its Oaks, beeches and Chestnuts removed during the 60's in order to plant Pine. now there going and the views across Milkham Bottom up onto Bratley Plain are clear again.  The sun was out in a blue sky and despite the thin ice on sheltered pools of water and the cold forecast, the woods felt like spring; smoke from the pyres of Pine remains filtered through the trees allowing the suns rays to dance amongst the trunks. 

Wartime what?

Just outside Roe Enclosure (1700), near King's Garden, are a group of heavy set concrete features, many containing iron bars and/or fixings, amongst low mounds representing rectangular features,. surrounded by what appears to be a low curved bank on one side.  I'm not sure what these features represent, although by the looks of the concrete they date from World War Two; furthermore, they are relatively close close to Stoney Cross air field and so may represent an associated site.