Coastal path

In part our walk back from White Nothe was along the undulating coastal path, back towards Durdle Door. It's a well worn route as shown by it's multiple narrow deep cut paths. At this point of the walk both the ups and downs were taking a toll on tired legs. But the views. Man, the views. And on such a smashing day too. Have I ever mentioned how blessed we are living in this part of the country. 

White Nothe smugglers path

White Nothe is a 160m high chalk headland overlooking Weymouth and Portland, it marks the western end of the high Cliffs which begin in Swanage, the coast beyond known as the Weymouth lowlands, although lovely, is far less dramatic. The headland is most famous for its zigzag smugglers Path up from the undercliff, which is thought to be the smugglers path featured in the 19th century novel Moonfleet. The path is one of the best on the Purbeck coast. Mind, the smugglers path is not for the weak hearted or those with a fear of heights, it's really steep and at one point buttock clenchingly scary. Even though I've navigated the path countless times over the years it still gives me the willies, the exhilaration and views though on completion are worth it.     

White Nothe undercliff

White Nothe undercliff

White nothe

Today's Purbeck perambulation was from Daggers Gate to White Nothe and back. The path out following the contours of the cliffs and hills, whilst the return path followed the crest of the hills. It's an open landscape, close to nature and close to the elements, we were lucky today as the elements were kind. It's a landscape all about sweeping shapes and grand views, it's a place that moves you, and in many ways depending on the elements mood. Today's was mood sublime serenity. I laid on the rough grassy hillside which sweeps steeply towards the cliffs, looking out to sea, and it dawned on me that all I could hear was the sounds of the insects in the grass. It was as if all the channels of the world were faded down, except the grasshoppers and small buzzy things.  The unusual breadth and depth of the quiet was noticeable by its rarity in modernity, and as I say quite sublime. 

Windy out?

The wind fair whipped in from the west today, stirring up the sea and raking in over the high cliffes at White Nothe and along the rock falls, scree slopes and overgrown landslides of Ringstead Bay. It's so strong the wind allows you to lean out so far as to defying gravity on the steep grassy slopes. And the air, man. The air is so clean and fresh. I breath in deeply. It feels fantastic, and after the recent days of dank damp grey nothingness, it is a welcomed relief. The coast really comes alive on days like these, and that energy is contagious.