All along the Watchtower

From high on White Nothe servicemen during the Second World War would have scanned the horizon for any incoming enemy planes or boats looking to attack the important anchorage of Weymouth.  As with so many defencive features of the period, this pillbox come observation station doesn't fit into the standard Directorate of Fortifications and Works (FW3) design catalog, rather it's adapted to suit the tactical requirements of the location. Today though, the sky and sea are free of invaders or harassers and this monument to war is at peace, set in isolation on this coastal high point with spectacular views in both directions of the Jurassic coast.

Ringstead

History has it that the shingle bay at Ringstead, beneath White Nothe, the lofty chalk headland to the east of the bay, was a popular spot with smugglers to off load their contraband. They say that the smugglers then, with 2 barrels of brandy, one held on each shoulder or under each arm, would make their way up the narrow path to the summit 170m above before disappearing into the maze of valleys which lead inland.  People of the past must have been made of stern stuff, climbing the path is tough enough without the brandy or the fear of capture. The path is steep and narrow, twisting and turning, slippery in places and rocky in others, an unnerving traverse at the best of times, one section  features a sweeping grassy slope which gives way to a sheer cliff.  Exhilarating as the climb is and stunning as the views afforded from the summit are, the path never ceases to solicit a fear in me.

Break on through to the other side.

I've watched this section of Highland water change over recent years. Logs and debris have caused dams creating flooding and eventually break through, leaving newly formed small ox bow lakes, of the type we learnt about in geography.  Here though, it's not  an obstruction which has caused a break through, rather the force of the flow at a tight corner. It's taken 3 years to get to this point, in past years the water over ran the bank at this point only during the wet months, scouring the surface and exposing the roots of nearby trees.  Although now the water flows over the bank throughout most of the year and soon here too an ox bow lake will form.

Lyndhurst Hill

Log

On coming upon this large section of trunk I was surprised as in the last few days it had moved some 10m down stream from the spot it had inhabited since last winter. The stream must have been running at some bore after the recent rains to have shifted such a bulk of timber, and then returned to its normal seasonal level as swiftly as it had risen. A reminder of how fast natural circumstances can change and an easily forded stream can become a deadly torrent and impassible obstacle.

Trumpets

 

A nice find, Trumpets Craterellus cornucopioides. This small black funnel shaped fungi, commonly found in Beech and Oak woodland, is prized for it's flavour when dried. Although listed as common, they are hard to find in amongst the leaf litter and can be easily overlooked.

Another day, another sunset

White Stags

I was lucky enough today to come across two young white Stags whilst walking in Great Huntley Bank. There are quiet a few white deer throughout the forest, though it's more common that I see white Does, so two Stags was a privilege.  They were wary of us and moved fast through quiet dense forest, so getting a clean photo of them was difficult and even after stalking them for some time this was the best I could manage.

Hurry on Sundown

See what tomorrow brings.

Hedgehogs

This years late summer/autumn mushroom season has been fair, I've seen good showings of Oyster, Wood Blewits and Parasols amongst others. I've gathered plenty of Ceps too, though leaving ample for the forest dwellers. I've also got a good quantity dried to use through until next season; dried Ceps last well, 2 or more years easily.  Today though it was the Hedgehog mushroom, Hydnum repandum, which filled my gathering sack. I do favour the Hedgehog and although a lot had gone over there were still ample for collection. Easy to spot and hard to misidentify, having neither gills, nor sponge, rather spines, they are always welcome in any fungi hunters basket.

The fallen

More trees had succumbed to the recent storms that I had at first thought.  Walking through the stands one comes across a fallen leviathan all too often. Huge trees, several hundred years old in some cases, now lay prostrate and begin their journey back to the earth, a journey which will take several decades. One thing that strikes me when investigating fallen trees is how unsubstantial their root ball and root systems often are compared with the size if the tree.  Take the Beech above, a mighty tree, 10's of meters high, yet it's root ball looks tiny in proportion; it would appear that although a trees root system may be extensive it is not substantial.  Whatever the cause or contributing factors, seeing fallen trees is always sad.

Mark Ash Autumn

The forest is a riot of glorious autumn colours, all the hues of fall are represented. The woodland floor is carpeted in crisping leafs, which swirl amongst the stands like leaf devils driven by gusting chill winds, the same winds which brake the bracts of their remaining brethren in the thinning canopy high above sending them  cascading downward through thinning branches to join the melee.  Autumn is another of natures wonders and a gift to be enjoyed.

Autumn Stream

Secret path

Almost hidden by the grasses and sedges, a narrow secret path, deep cut, leads through the young trees. on the edge of the common ravaged by fire a few years back, though surrounding vigorous growth hides that fact. I enjoy the enclosed feeling you get walking these obscure little walked paths, they promote an air of mystery and escape from the modernity of life, allowing you to imagine what walking the wildwood must have felt like.

Wood Blewit

I found a Wood Blewit today amongst the tall Beech which border Highland water below Roman Bridge, a much sought after mushroom, listed as excellent in the field guides, it was a welcome find.  There were several others just emerging from the leaf litter, not ready for picking yet maybe, but a spot worth remembering in the next few days.

Barton sunset

After several minutes of discussion and impassioned explanation, 'It's just a sunset, it happens every night' the youth replied, still missing the point.

Spout

As if a concrete whale was loitering by the shore this submerges pillbox, a fallen and fading remnant of the war, spouts water into the air every time a wave rushes through the open embrasures forcing water up through a small hole in the roof.  This is a recent phenomena since the surrounding beach level has dropped exposing more of the pillbox and allowing water to enter the interior.

Remembered

Portuguese fireplace at Milliford Bridge, where Portuguese forces during the First World War were drafted in to provide forestry labour, providing wood for the trenches.  Men were needed to help in the forest as the local population had been greatly diminished. The fire place is all that remains of the cook house, the mill, the accommodation, even the woodland train that carried the wood to the mill from the enclosures has long since disappeared. There are some other ephemeral features, although you could easily pass and never know of the areas wartime industry.

White Shoot

After the rain

The grey clouds, heavy with chilling rain have now passed, having deposited their loads on the forest they head east. Now the Sun shines, causing the damp forest to glisten as if covered by tiny jewels. The elements can transform the forest with amazing speed.

Pannage continues about the forest

Pannage continues and the pigs still appear to have plenty to eat. Here at Alum Green a group of 20 or so pigs, from piglets through juveniles, let by an imposing black sow snuffle through the fallen leafs for tasty treats.  

Autumns march

Autumns march towards winter continues at a pace as the thick canopies which shielded the forest from the summer Sun, now faded into a plethora of rustic hues, thin and fall. The forest is beautiful.

Samhain

With final harvest gathered in,

the veil betwixt worlds grows ever thin.

So set a place and spare a thought,

for those we love who've journeyed forth.

With tomorrows dawn winters reign begins,

of nights so dark and day's so thin.

But upon the hills bone fires burn bright,

and from their hearts our hearths ignite.

And with salmons wisdom we'll seek to dream,

a chance of foresight through times endless stream.

Celebrate and give thanks for achievements won,

for a new year starts with the rising Sun.

Blessings at Samhain.

Milky seas

Below a wind wracked cloudy sky the sea trails milky blue along the Purbecks around Durdle Door as the rough autumn seas erode the tons of chalk rubble deposited periodically along the shore line by slippages and falls. Lapped at by the waves, a fresh pile of chalk boulders west of Scratchy Bottom blocks your progress along the beach and add to the milky seas. More sections of cliff look poised to follow around the bottom. This year has been witness to more cliff slides than I can remember; slides regularly appear, but not with the frequency or severity of recent months.  The elements are conspiring to effect change on the timeless Jurassic coast. 

Hurst Castle

You had to walk along the shore as a section of the track had been closed due to the Coastguards finding World War Two ordinance, 3 or so anti aircraft shells. The MOD were called, but they were on the Island dealing with ordinance there; so the Coastguards would be having a long wait. The guys said there'd been several finds after the storm, with some larger bombs being found aways along the spit yesterday. Around the the castle end of the spit, the surging storm waters have scoured the gravel in front of the fortifications revealing all manner of past works. Concrete, red brick and stone, probably the remain of military features or possibly revetment works to protect the main fortification for storms. Either way there was a lot exposed, so much gravel has been washed away.  In one section red bricks from features in the inter-tidal were scattered, thrown inland by what must have been ferocious combination of wind and water. So, Hurst weathered another storm. I wonder how many that makes?  There's been a fortification here since 1540, so I imagine it's seen a few.

A day at the seaside

Oh I do like to be beside the seaside.. Well, who wouldn't?

Spit erosion

I wrote yesterday that I hadn't seen much damage, well, that changed today visiting Hurst spit. The spit had only recently been renovated, though you'd think the contrary seeing the state of sections of it today. The high winds, highest speeds recorded just across the water at the Needles, and lashing waves have ripped at the gravel spit, removing hundreds of tons of material and totally altering its profile. Where there was a steep sloping stepped seaward face to the spit, you'll find it massively eroded, now a broad expanse gently sloping to a, nearly a meter high, sheer face. The back of the spit has suffered too, with deep gullies cut by the over shooting waves displacing tons of gravel towards the salt marshes.  The access track which runs along the spit is no more than 3 or 4 meters in places, much narrower than it was. In more than one place only but a couple of meters stood between a disastrous breach. Each of the elements alone contains massive power but combined their power is awesome. I fancy it would have been quite an experience to have weathered the storm out at Hurst Castle.

Storms end

Well the bulk of the storm has passed over, only it's tail end remains, though still angry enough to continue to deal out sharp winds and the occasional squally shower.  Other than the occasional fallen bough the storm appears to have spared the trees, although a walk through the forest will may tell a different story, in fact there was less damage locally than one may have anticipated.  No bad thing.

Before the storm

Between scudding showers occasionally the Sun broke through, infiltrating the thinning canopy and illuminating the woodland floor, so long in the shade. These were fleeting moments though, mere interludes in the weathers grand design. Even then, with a clear sky, the winds continued to gust. Embracing a tree you could feel it flex and twist as its boughs were shaken under duress. Amongst the Oak it continued to rain even when the sky cleared, a hard rain of acorns which litter the floor creating a crunchy carpet and ample meals for foraging pigs. They say the storm will be intense, like the storm of '87, we'll have to see. The damage caused in '87 is still visible about the forest in the rotting hulks of fallen leviathans and numerous holes in the canopy. I hope the forest is spared, we've lost too many trees already this year.

Cauliflower Fungus

Sparassis crispa, the Cauliflower Fungus is a fairly common parasitic fungus found predominantly at the base Pine trunks or on Pine stumps.  The Cauliflower Fungus is edible, listed as good by many, best collected when young you must ensure it is cleaned well to remove any foreign bodies trapped amongst its lobes and then cook it well.  This example was in very good condition.

Out of range

Adjacent to Bokerley Dyke is an abandoned military firing range, originating in the Second World War it was last used by the army in the 1950's. It's one of the largest firing ranges I've come across and would have facilitated many shooters.  At the South East end is the ranges giant butt, designed to limit the dangers of stray rounds, which has been constructed out of excavated chalk rubble from 2 clearly visible areas either side of it. To the front of the butt, North West, is an overgrown feature running parallel; double banks with thick brickwork revetment to their rear and associated concrete platforms would have once have held targets, now only fragments of this substantial feature are visible through dense consuming foliage. Beyond the target platforms, equally spaced, are five broad firing platforms, maybe 50m apart. A quick look at a few of the exposed sections of the target platform revealed tell tale evidence of that mainstay of the British army throughout World War Two and beyond, the Lee Enfeild .303 (still sometimes used for sniping); a copper-nickel full metal jacketed bullet with a lead core. The day was getting late, so we had to head back, otherwise I'd have liked to investigate this site further. Another day.

Bokerley Dyke

Bokerley Dyke, a major linear bank and ditch earthwork, is impressive, for a earthen monument several thousand years old it remains a powerful and very visible feature running over 6km across the Dorset landscape. Believed to have originated during the Bronze Age/Iron Age transition period, giving it a rough construction date around 3000 BC +/- 400, the dyke was refortified during the late Iron Age and later remodelled and refortified by the Romano British population in defence against the Saxons, later still and continuing today it delineated part of the county boundary with Hampshire.

Return of the pigs

Our friends the pigs were about in the woods again today and again they charged towards us, although there was no river to escape them this time and so we had to hold our ground. They all but ignored Norris, although the 2 young saddlebacks snorted around my boots and legs, attempting to taste my bootlaces and trousers, but were easily shooed off.  After which, they followed us about the forest like dogs, if we got ahead of them whilst they foraged, they'd charge after us to catch up. As we began our walk back, they were still following us and I became concerned that they were wandering away from their normal roam. So, skulking off through the trees, I thought we'd lost them, shortly there after they trotted out of the shrub. Then we ran off, through dense gorse, across wet ground, jumping several small rivulets and into thick woodland; thinking we must have given them the slip we slowed our pace.  No, they found us. This went on for half an hour or so, and I was becoming increasing worried for them as I knew where we were heading was not safe for them and they could access the A35, which would be disastrous.  In a last ditch attempt we took the underpass, which I knew would be flooded and may effect a deterrent to our pig friends; it worked, we got wet wading but the pigs, with much snorting, turned back.  I was relieved, although I'd enjoyed their company and will hopefully seek them out again during this pannage season.

Track

The basics remain the basics, the need to cross a wet area, using resources available to hand has never changed. I look at this basic wooden track and immediately I recognize it as virtually the same as prehistoric trackways I'd studied; trackways such as those found in the Somerset Levels or Ireland and dating from as far back as the Neolithic. When I see things like this it is brought more sharply into focus how for all our modern trappings we are fundamentally the same as our distant ancestors.

Chestnuts

It's a good year for Sweet Chestnuts in the forest, they might not all be big, although plenty are, but there is a fair quantity of them and they taste good; roasted or fresh.

Pig rout

We were routed from Red Rise Shade by marauding pigs, well, the two small pigs we'd seen a few weeks ago. When we last saw them they were nervous, approaching us slowly, tentatively and with care. Not today, they charged towards us, encouraging us to walk fast at first, before running, we only managed to evade them by jumping Red Rise Brook. Even then they followed us along the other side stream. Menaced by two small pigs, bears yes or wolfs, but tiny pigs, shameful :o)

Cubes

I've passed these Second World War Anti Tank Cubes for over 40 years now, and they've endured well, a few may have slumped a bit over that time and scratched graffiti appears and fades again; though built in haste with whatever was a hand, 70 years on they're not too shabby. They once extended four times as far inland to cut the peninsular off, though now only this section and a few displaced blocks of the seas side of the toll road remain. It's funny, we rave about castles, stately homes and other historic monuments, although we tend to neglect World War Two remains, yes there's a slight upturn in interest, stimulated by anniversaries, but on the whole such sites go unnoticed and untended or worse, are destroyed. Short sighted in my opinion.   

Studland Stone

One of 6 standing stones in a group on the Studland peninsular. Five stones form a linear setting, running roughly North South, with the sixth slightly off to the West of the Northern most stone, which is shown above. An interesting and enigmatic group of uncertain age, in an unusual setting, with dates from the Iron Age to the 1700's suggested, more investigation needed to understand the purpose of this monument.

Tenacious Tree

I think this Scots Pine shows a high degree of tenacity eking out a modest existence occupying niche environment amongst the dunes and heather of Shell Bay. Exposed to all the elements could throw at it, twisted and gnarled, kept stunted by the constant battle royal, it continues to endure all hardships to keep it fragile tenure on the shifting sands. Trees are great.

Godlingston Hill

You'd have been excused for thinking it was still the summer today on Godlingston Hill.